Marlow & Sons, worth a trip to Brooklyn

Monday at noon.  Marlow & Sons is a lovely spot for a meal.  Walk through the shop in the front to the dining area, and you feel as if you have left the city.  This is a charming, sweet, calm, little restaurant serving well crafted food.

The market salad is a generous plate of assorted, crisp greens, ever so slightly under-cooked hard boiled egg quarters, red onions, toasted bread crumbs served with a dressing that changes daily.  The salad is lightly dressed, unlike salads served in so many places, both high and low, where the greens are drowning.

Today's house made ham (actually from Marlow & Daughters' butcher shop down the street) and cheese sandwich has sliced summer squash inside and is dressed with a grainy mustard.  This toasted sandwich is served on fabulous dark bread studded with sunflower seeds.  It also comes with fresh, crisp salad greens, lightly dressed.

The Italiano sandwich was packed with Italian meats--prosciutto, salami, mortadella, presumably all from Marlow & Daughters--and cheeses.  It was served on a fresh, crusty roll that was not a baguette, but certainly not your average hero roll either.  Again, a bit of salad greens rounded out your plate.

LIC Treasure: Le Tournesol

Why do you have to travel to LIC to dine at a "neighborhood" French restaurant? 

My esteemed French teacher, Fanny, lived in Queens, and highly recommended Le Tournesol, while we sat in its sister establishment, simply called "Wine Bar."

Le Tournesol is a wonderful neighborhood French restaurant where the menu is reminiscent of a type of French restaurant that you can find all over France, and that you used to be able to find in Manhattan.  Appetizers range from French Onion soup to Frisée Aux Lardons with Poached Egg, to house made Terrine de Fois Gras.  This is the type of place where Celeri Remoulade might accompany an entree.   The Steak Frites is a hanger steak served either "au poivre" or "a la Béarnaise."  Boundaries are not being pushed.  Simple and fresh ingredients are being lovingly prepared in the "French" way.

We started with two specials, the Crabmeat Salad with Avocados and Tomatoes, and the Seared Scallops with Grapes and Beet Sauce.  For entrees, we enjoyed the Truite Amandine which was seared in butter; and the Saturday night special, a Duck Ballotine.  A whole duck breast is boned, stuffed with chicken liver and swiss chard, roasted and a generous slice is served with orange sauce, baby turnips and Pommes Anna.  For dessert we had a slice of Bread Pudding with raisins sitting in Crème Anglaise; and Iles Flottants, a delicious slice of soft meringue "floating" in a pool of that delicious Crème Anglaise.  (I have not seen Iles Flottants on a French restaurant menu, in the city, in ages, not with all the experimental and sometimes complicated desserts that dominate so many dessert menus.)

The waitstaff of 4 is quite attentive with a total of 48 guests now that outdoor tables are available.  This wonderful neighborhood restaurant is good enough to make you want to move to LIC., and to become a "regular."

Snack Taverna

This is a wonderful little Greek restaurant in the Village.  It is warm and inviting.  The food is delicious and imaginative, and prepared with care.  The staff is efficient and friendly without overdoing it.

The Saganaki (pan seared Kefalotyri Cheese) is a "Small Dish", and a wonderful way to start a meal. It was a perfect complement to the Greek Sauvignon Blanc.  The Saganaki is served with lemon and, not too spicy, "spicy tomato relish."  The crunchiness of the cheese was a treat.

The Octopus with Gigante Beans and Garlic "Meze" would have been bland, if not for the unexpected sprigs of cilantro.

The small Greek Salad was a lightly dressed bowl of fresh tomatoes, red onions, cucumbers, kalamata olives and a generous slab of barrel aged Greek feta cheese, sprinkled with a little fresh thyme.

The small Roasted Red Beet  and Butter Bean Salad was served on a bed of watercress, with toasted almonds, and topped with a dollop of garlicky Skordalia made with Yukon Gold potatoes, peasant bread and garlic.

Snack Taverna's "small" salads are really quite generous in size.  The "large" salads came in serving bowls.  I cannot imagine being able to eat a "large" salad by myself, especially after having at least one  Meze and one "Small Plate" beforehand.  As it was, we only had room for dessert.  And what tasty desserts they were.

A generous serving of Greek yoghurt with thyme honey sat on a round of walnut cake in a pool of fresh blueberry crumble (?).  A Greek goat's milk yoghurt custard had a surprising, but delicious texture, and was stopped by sliced, toasted almonds and accompanied by figs.  Not a morsel was left.

A Near Miss

Today I witnessed an almost tragedy.

Mother with three children.  Two in a double stroller, one child in front of the other.  The third child is walking alongside the stroller.

Crossing an intersection where 3 lanes of traffic have stopped for a red light.

Flashing lights and a blaring siren from a police car approaching the intersection in the parking lane.

Mother stops just as the police car reaches the crosswalk.

The child sitting in the front seat of the stroller hops out, and misses being hit by the police car by a foot.

NO CHILD RIDING IN A STROLLER IS MATURE ENOUGH TO DECIDE WHETHER HE/SHE SHOULD BE STRAPPED IN.

Summer in the City, Part II, Walking "Around" Manhattan

Today, we started a journey to circumnavigate the island of Manhattan, staying along the water as much as possible.  The focus was not the skyline, but what was going on along the waterfront itself.

We started at the Staten Island Ferry Terminal and headed East along the water.  We passed the ferry terminal to Governor's Island, and saw three helicopters land on the East River Heliport at Pier 6.

At Old Slip and South Street, we spotted the NYC Police Museum, who even knew it was there?

At the foot of Wall Street, a huge line snaked under the FDR.  People were waiting to board the Seastreak for the 30 minute ride to the beaches of Sandy Hook, NJ.  Judging by the length of the line, and hearing the moans when the crowd was told you had to buy tickets to board the ship, a mid-week trip to Sandy Hook is best.  Sharing Pier 11 with the Seastreak are the Water Taxis to Brooklyn.  The crowds kept us from discovering Cheng's installation at the pier's tip.  Another time.

The South Street Seaport Museum Ships are found at Piers 15, 16 and 17.  The former Rouse retail complex at Pier Pavilion 17 is anchored on the ground floor by Johnny Rockets, and on the second floor by Pizzeria Uno.  Haven't a clue or a care about what retail stores can be found inside.  This is tourist heaven with street vendors selling the latest "hot" sunglasses, handbags and other assorted knickknacks.

On South Street I spotted several loading bays with signs for some farmers' market stallworths--Migliori's farm, the pickle people, Granddaisy's Bakery, etc.  However, I was not curious enough to interrupt my journey North to stop and find out if there is indeed a covered farmers' market  in one of the old fishmongers' buildings.  Maybe another time.

Strolling along under the FDR, dodging bike riders and joggers, I tried to stay as close to the water as possible.  However, there is construction and maintenance going on, but it does not keep you away from the foot of the Brooklyn Bridge.

As always, the Brooklyn Bridge was compelling, even from underneath, on the Manhattan side.  What is it about this bridge that just speaks to me?  It seems both delicate and solid at the same time.  The details are a delight to behold, whether observing them from below, or while crossing it on foot.

Continuing our walk North, we discovered the Two Bridges neighborhood.  A little known waterfront neighborhood between the Brooklyn Bridge and the Manhattan Bridge.  It shares the underside of the FDR with a curious collection of old cars--Thunderbirds, Buicks, Chevy's, all of the 1960's vintage.  Why are they there?  Who is guarding them?  Why isn't someone taking better care of them?

We passed fisherfolk and a few people doing Tai Chi.  Not unexpected since Chinatown is due West of this neighborhood.  Close to the foot of the Manhattan Bridge was a baseball field, with restrooms and the name "Verizon Fields."  Does this belong to Verizon, to the City; is it part of a public school?  No matter, it was empty.  Not a soul using it on such a glorious day.

If you are alert, you will catch a glimpse of McKim, Mead & White's Gouverneur Hospital, an old City hospital with tiers of curved verandas.

Between the Manhattan Bridge and Williamsburg Bridge, you are reminded that this is both a working waterfront and a recreational area.  After you past the Sanitation Department's complex, you come upon the East River Park Amphitheater and a derelict City owned Environmental Education Center.  There are tennis courts, softball diamonds, and baseball fields with lights sharing space with soccer pitches. 

Part 1 of this journey ended at East Houston/FDR interchange, where we dodged two lanes of traffic to leave the waterfront.

Summer in the City, Part I, Random Thoughts

Riverside Park--a weekly picnic dinner with friends by the water.  A constantly changing configuration of people.  Food, drink and conversation.  Cooling breezes.  Sunset over the Hudson.  Chilling out after a long, busy day.

Strolling along the riverfront, past the outdoor yoga class; dodging the bicycles and joggers.  Passing solitary readers, and pairs sharing private moments of whispered conversations.  Weaving through the crowd at the Boat Basin Cafe.  Riverside Park is alive with people and art.  A new waterside sculpture program, stretching from West 72nd Street to West 65th (?). 

Is there no one willing to pay the price to turn on all the lights on the GW bridge, or will we have to be satisfied with a single, horizontal string of lights guiding us northward? 

Birreria, a rare Batali-Bastianich stumble?

A beautiful warm, sunny Saturday afternoon.  A drink in the great Outdoors seemed appealing. A short elevator ride from Eataly brings you to the roof and Birreria, a beer garden with an extensive list of draft beers, bottled beers, and, coming soon, cask beers.  While this is a place to drink, there is a relatively short bar.  There are many tables, at which you are definitely meant to eat.  Yet, we were underwhelmed by the food.  Maybe it was just a little too early and too hot for pork shoulder, sausages, and other grilled foods. Find a table under an umbrella, or you will need SPF 75 sunblock.  Although it is on the 14th floor, facing Madison Square Park, there is not much of a view.  

The beers sampled were okay.  Would I travel downtown or uptown to drink them, I don't think so.  The DFH Festina Peche, described as a Berliner Weisse with Peaches, could not compare to the Berliner Weisse served at Luchow's or any other decent German restaurant.  The Blue Point Summer Ale must be for people who do not like the taste of beer.  However, it was aptly described as a "refresher."  Perhaps someone who loves Guinness really shouldn't comment on ales of any type?

Suggestion--more shade and lighter food during the daylight hours.

Le Isole--the crossroads of Italy

Is it any wonder that the food of the islands of Italy is so complex?  These islands have withstood "visits" from the Greeks, the Romans, the Byantines, the Saracens, and now boat loads of tourists from around the world.

First set the tovaglia with bowls of the Mandranova family's 100% Giarraffa olive oil.  This olive oil is slightly bitter, but light, with an assertive peppery taste.  We have been told it was cultivated for the "hyper-niche market of olive oil enthusiasts."  Whew!

To whet our appetites, we were served Arancini con Ragu, a delicious introduction to Sicilian food, and a wonderful accompaniment to wine.  These were crisp, golden brown, golf ball sized spheres of arborio rice that were flavored with saffron, pecorino, eggs and stuffed with a little veal, beef and sausage ragu.  Before being fried in olive oil, the arancini were dusted with flour, dipped in egg whites and rolled in bread crumbs. 

Duca di Castelmonte's Dinari de Duca Grillo IGT 2009 from Sicily was slightly chilled and perfect with the arancini, preparing us for the meal to come.

For the Primi course, we were served Fregula con Mais, a fantastic pasta found in every Sardinian kitchen.  This semolina pasta, originally from North Africa, has a slightly nutty, wheaty flavor, and was served with fresh corn kernals, heirloom cherry tomato halves, sliced scallions and a Lemon Vinaigrette.  A perfect summer pasta, especially when the corn has just been picked.

Pesce Spada a la Griglo was served on top of Caponata di Melanzane from a jar.  While the caponata was tasty, I could not help thinking how much better it would have been if it had been made freshly.  Mario Batali's recipe for caponata was distributed and would have been better than what we had from a jar. This is not to say that the Caponata was not tasty.  It was tasty.

A winey Cannonau Riserva 2007 from Sella & Msca in Sardegna was the perfect foil for the Caponata, yet it did not drown out the delicate flavor of the grilled swordfish dressed with more of that wonderful Sicilian olive oil.

A journey well spent.

Chocolate Lovers' Alert

I have justed discovered the Domori brand of chocolate.  I can hardily recommend the "Cacao Teyuna" bar, which is 70% cacao, single origin (Colombia), dark chocolate.  This bar is simiply cacao and cane sugar. 

I have always been a little skeptical about all the wooohooo surrounding "artisanal Chocolate."  However, now that I have tasted a chocolate considered artisanal, I can see why there is such a fuss.  It is not only the rich, deep, dark taste that has won me over, but also the texture of the chocolate.  This bar begged for a good cup of espresso.

Domori is an Italian brand which can be found, where else, at Eataly, one of my favorite haunts.

Theatre is Still Alive and Breathing in the Big City

Last night, the American Renaissance Theater Company's Spring Reading Series--2011 presented six readings--five one act plays, and the first act of a full-length work.  The performances were, on the whole, pretty polished for staged readings, and expertly directed.  The plays themselves were of varied subject matter, and thought provoking, while being entertaining.  Not a polemic among them.

A well written one act play is like a short story, a single gem polished to perfection.

In spite of the difficulty, or maybe because of it, creative people will continue to find their way to New York for artistic support, sustenance, and success, as measured by individual standards.  Bravo to every actor, writer, director, producer, lighting designer, choreographer, dancer, musician, etc. who helps keep the city's heart beating.

L'Italia Meridionale--The South

L'Italia Meridionale consists of Abruzzo, Molise, Campania, Puglia, Basilicata e Calabria.  With Sicily this region was called, "al Regno delle Due Sicilie," the kingdom of the two Sicilys. 

Today's journey started with a slightly warm pyramid of Mozzarella di Bufalo di Campania, sitting in a pool of Olive Oil from Calabria, seasoned with salt and pepper.  The chewy cheese was a revelation, so much better tasting than the cow's milk mozzarella produced in the U.S.

Orecchiette Alle Cime di Rapa was the pasta course.  This former "peasant's dish" could not have been more satisfying.  The Broccoli Rabe is cut into small pieces, blanched, and tossed with the cooked Orecchiette in a delightful sauce of olive oil, garlic, finely chopped anchovies, and a minced, hot chili pepper.  The finished pasta is topped with toasted breadcrumbs and more olive oil.  The Feudi di San Gregorio, Greco di Tufo 2009 from Campania was delicious.

Lidia's Pesce Spada all'Uso di Bagnara rounded off our meal.  Swordfish steaks were covered with olive oil, lemon slices, and garlic; and then steamed in a dish, placed on a rack inside a roasting pan.  Once out of the oven, the swordfish was showered with crumbled dried oregano and sprinkled with fresh parsley; and served on a warm Caponata.  Much to our surprise a red wine from Puglia was served.  The Castello Monaci Liante, Salice Salentino 2009 played perfectly with the hearty caponata.  Neither the red wine, nor the caponata overwhelmed the swordfish.  What a revelation--red wine with fish!

From "Altitalia" to "Centritalia," heavy red sauces are not to be found.

A food trip to the central region of Italy included Toscana, Umbria, Marche e Lazio.  We started with two salumi from the central region--Mortadella with pistachios and Salame Toscano, a sausage with black pepper and cubes of fat; and two salumi from the North--a slice of Coppa, a cured meat from the pork shoulder, and the ever popular Prosciutto di Parma.  Complementing these meats were two sheep's milk cheeses, the firm Sfizo; and Cacio di Roma, a semi-firm cheese; a puddle of Amaretto-flavored Honey and a drizzle of La Mozza Olive Oil.

The pasta course was the prototypical Roman dish, "Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe."  It could not have been tastier or more simple to prepare, since it was just a pound of freshly cooked dried Spaghetti tossed with at least a cup of grated Pecorino Romano and a two tablespoons of freshly ground Black Pepper.  Served with a wonderful Fontana Candida, a Frascati Superiore 2009 from Lazio.

To complete this meal a simply roasted squab was served with a delicious bean stew, Fagioli all'Uccelletto--cannellini beans, olive oil, canned whole tomatoes, garlic, sage, rosemary, onion, and celery.  A hearty red, La Mozza, Morellino di Scansano "I Perazzi," 2008 was enjoyed.

Catalonia Transforms Paella

If you remember fighting your siblings for the crunchy rice at the bottom of the family rice pot, then you must visit Socarrat Paella Bar in Chelsea.  The knowledgeable and welcoming staff will show you how to eat paella, saving the crunchy socarrat for the end of your meal.

Socarrat serves a fantastic Catalonian Paella Nero.  This paella is cooked in squid ink; and is served with squid, scallops, shrimp and a mild white fish.  A few strips of red pepper and pale green fava beans add color to this otherwise black and white dish.  Every morsel is a delight.

A few tapas began this wonderful meal.  Datiles Rellenos are dates stuffed with cheese and almonds and wrapped in bacon.  Pan Tomaca--toast smeared with fresh tomatoes, olive oil, garlic and sherry vinegar--will be even better when sun-ripened, local tomatoes are available.  Wanting a vegetable, the accommodating waitress mentioned that the chef would be happy to prepare a few Cubanelle peppers, which are sweet peppers from Catalonia.  These three choices were a nice balance to the paella nero that followed.

If all Spaniards are as congenial as the ones working at Socarrat Paella Bar, Spain will continue to move up on the list of "must visit" countries, with Catalonia being the first stop.

"It's Greek to Me!"

No one prepares fish as well as the Greeks.  And no one on the UWS prepares it as well, and as reasonably priced, as Kefi.  No wonder Michael Psilakis' lively Greek restaurant is often packed. 

Start with the Warm Feta, Tomatoes, Capers, Anchovy, Peppers and Olive salad/spread/dip.  It is served with toasted pita bread.  When tomatoes are not in season, you'll find grape tomatoes in this savory meze.  Take care not to stuff yourself with the quartet of Greek spreads--tzatziki, taramosalata, melintzanosalata and revithia, which is also a meze option.

The fish is simply prepared, but so fantastic.  The Grilled Swordfish was cooked as ordered, rare; and served on a slightly al dente portion of fresh Broccoli Rabe.  It was dressed with a little lemon and Greek oregano.  The Pan Seared Striped Bass, while normally served with string beans, was served with asperagus, which are at their seasonal peak, and olives, capers and fingerling potatoes. There are also plenty of options for the non-fish eaters among us.

Save room for some yummy Greek dessert.  As always the Greek Yoghurt and Honey are satisfying, but Galaktobouriko with Orange Spoon Fruit is even better, and not found on every Greek menu.  The rice pudding is definitely on my list for my next visit to this gem.

"Is It Fine Art? Does It Matter?"

This is the title of the current exhibit at The Pen and Brush, Inc. on West 10th Street in the Village.  This exhibit showcases the work of over 70 women artists. 

Why is this question being asked?  Does "Fine Art" command more respect, higher prices, etc., than work that is not considered "Fine Art?"  To whom does this matter most, to the collector, the investor, or the creator?

This exhibit reminded me of my prejudices vis-a-vis "Fiber Art."  I still cannot appreciate it in the same way that I respond, positively or negatively to a painting, a print, a piece of sculpture or a photograph.  Perhaps my vision is limited.  I still think of textiles as "crafty."  Have I been brainwashed by all those art history courses in college? 

Why do I wander?

Living and working on the UWS has introduced a bit of wanderlust to my life.  That is why you find me roaming the streets and avenues all over the City, whenever possible.  New York is an adventure.  Isn't that why we choose to live here?

Street Fair Saved by a Lobster Roll!

Just as I was getting ready to walk on the other side of the street, to avoid all the usual suspects at yet another Sunday street fair (Mozzarepas, turkey legs, shish kebabs, and "French" crepes), I spotted a Boston Chowda stand, for the second Sunday in a row.  Being brave and curious, I took the plunge and ordered a combination for $15.  This buys you a Lobster Roll and a small cup of Clam Chowder.  I was skeptical about the Lobster Roll.  It looked a little too "mayonaise-y" to me, but much to my surprise it was filled with chunks of lobster meat from the claw, no filler.  The roll is served on a modest bed of shredded lettuce inside a New England style bun.  However, the bun was a bit much--large, ungrilled, etc.  So, I decided to eat the lobster meat with a fork, and enjoyed every morsel.

My food buddy enjoyed the Clam Chowder which had a nice balance of clams and potatoes, and which was not the "gloppy" mess that often passes for New England Clam Chowder.

Kudos to the Boston Chowda stand!

Doughnut Plant "Uptown"!

Craving a Très Leches doughnut from the Doughnut Plant, but want to avoid a 3 train ride from the UWS?  Take the #1 train to West 23rd Street where there is now an outpost of the world famous, LES, Doughnut Plant.  Deliveries are received from the LES bakery every two hours!  While you can find these doughnuts on the UWS, they are not as fresh tasting as the ones directly from the LES bakery and its Chelsea outpost.

This "uptown" location also has tables, chairs and a full range of hot beverages.  Perfect for savouring these gems.

Piemonte's Agnolotti del Plin con Burro e Salvia

Tiny morsels of goodness, a specialty of Piemonte.  Lidia's own recipe for these tiny egg pasta bites filled with ground veal.  The recipe is simplicity in itself.  For 6 as a primi.

2# Agnolotti del Plin (from Eataly, where else?)
8-10 T Butter
10 Fresh Sage Leaves
1 C grated Grana Padano

Prepare Agnolotti.  Reserve 1 cups of pasta water.  Drain pasta.

Melt butter, toast fresh sage leaves in the butter for a minute. 
Add the cup of pasta water to the butter and sage; stir, simmer for 2 minutes, reducing the liquid by half. 

Add drained agnolotti to pan, cook until pasta coated with sauce. 

Remove sage leaves, add grated cheese and serve.

What could be simpler?  Thank you Lidia

Nose to Tail dining.

When did the United States stop dining from "nose to tail?"  It amuses me that one of the latest crazes is "nose to tail" dining.  Haven't we loved Bologna, Salami and Hot Dogs for ages?  What about Head Cheese and Souse?  Have Scrapple and Tongue disappeared?  Aren't sausages of all kinds part of our food vocabularies?  Didn't they serve fried liver and onions in the school cafeteria?  Remember pickled pigs feet, chopped chicken liver, stuffed derma?  Sauteed calves brains were still on the menu at the Cave Henri IV in the '60s.

At first thought, I guessed things changed after the great migration to the cities.  But wait, I am a city person, born and bred.  Yet, these foods were part of my childhood and adolescence.   What's up?  Where did they go, that they now have to be rediscovered?  Please advise.

Jackson Diner - Worth the Trip?

Jackson Diner, 37-47 74th Street, Jackson Heights, NY.

Is it worth it to take 3 subway trains to Queens just for dinner?  On a lazy Saturday in May, the journey began around 5 p.m. and ended a little after 6 p.m.  Thanks to the MTA and its bewildering, but necessary (?) service interruptions and changes.

Upon seating, customers are given a huge pitcher of ice water and a dish of Papad (crisp lentil wafers) with two dipping sauces.  Remembering how filling Indian food can be, we nibbled only sparingly on the Papad.  The first thing ordered was the requisite Kingfisher beer. The meal started with an appetizer special, Uttapaums (?), a lentil pancake with sauteed veggies.  These were served with two dipping sauces--a yogurt based coconut, pale green sauce and a thin brown sauce with little flavor.

The main course included Goat Curry and Sag Paneer.  Since no Indian meal is complete without bread, after much deliberation the Onion Kulcha was selected. The Sag Paneer was served with Dal and Cucumber Raita, a clear indication that the dish they accompanied was going to be spicy hot, and it was.  The Goat Curry seemed a little tame, until a bit of heat hit the back of your throat after it was swallowed.

The food at the Jackson Diner seems to be spiced for Indians.  It is assertive, but not hot just to burn for its own sake.  Dishes have always had varying degrees of heat.  Unlike the Sag Paneer served in much of Manhattan, the Jackson Diner's version had plenty of paneer.  While you can find goat on the menu at several Indian restaurants in Manhattan, often it is not available.  The goat meat in the curry was tasty thanks to being cooked on the bone.  There could have been more meat in the curry.

Only able to eat half of each of the entrees, dessert was out of the question.  There were enough leftovers for a satisfying lunch the next day.

To answer the question posited at the beginning of this piece, yes it is.  While I am not Indian, have not eaten in an Indian home since grade school, and have not traveled to Indian, the food at the Jackson Diner seems authentic enough to continue to draw neighborhood patrons from India and other parts of South East Asia.

Finally a visit to the Momofuku empire

After walking around the "Festival of Ideas for the New City StreetFest," I finally paid a visit to two parts of David Chang's Momofuku empire--Momofuku SSam Bar and the LES branch of Momofuku Milk Bar.  Sitting at the long bar at Momofuku SSam Bar is the way to go for first time visitors.  You can see all the delicious food others are enjoying, while you make up your mind.  Since it was early, we decided to order from the "Small Dishes" part of the menu.  We started off with the Steamed Buns, which everyone seemed to be ordering.  These are definitely not the steamed baos found in every Chinatown from Manhattan to Flushing to Clement Street.  These pillowy, flat disks of dough envelope wonderfully tasty pieces of pork belly, garnished with hoisin sauce, scallions, and almost translucent slices of cucumber, that still retained a bit of crunch.  Next came the Bar Bun, another pillowy, flat disk of dough.  This time the pork belly is crispy and accompanied by slices of avocado, basil and smoked mayonnaise.  Feeling guilty about eating all that pork belly, we ordered some veggies.  First we had the Asperagus served with trout roe, lilly shoots and sunflower seeds.  A new combination for us.  Then we had the Market Greens (Bok Choy), which are stir fried and served in XO sauce and garnished with fried leeks.  There was a hint of heat after each bite of these dark greens.  While the red wine ordered was enjoyed, beer will be the beverage of choice on the next visit. 

Now, if I can only persuade 5 or 7 other pork lovers to venture to the LES, we can order the Bo Ssam--a whole pork butt roasted, a dozen oysters, kimchi, rice and lettuce for a real pig-out.

After all that porky richness, just what you need is a cookie, whose first ingredient is butter!  But I am a sucker for any commercially baked product that lists butter as its first ingredient.  The Compost Cookie is tasty, but it was hard to discern the influence of some of its many ingredients in addition to butter and chocolate chips--potato chips, pretzels, coffee, oats and butterscotch.  I was hoping for that ideal balance of butter, chocolate, sugar and salt, maybe next time.

Birthday Bangers at DBGB's

Actually, I had the Beaujolaise sausage (pork, mushroom, onion, bacon & red wine) and the Tunisienne sausage (a lamb & mint merguez). The table also had the Anglaise (2 English pork bangers) and the Louisianne (andouille sausage).  Four different sausages not being enough for three people, so a Toscane (sliced Italian sausage) and an Espagnole (sliced chorizo) were ordered.

But I am getting ahead of myself. 

We started with the Flatbread special of the day, a crispy flatbread topped with Sauteed Ramps, Crushed Fava Beans, Sweet Onion Puree, Chevre and Lamb Pancetta.  The kitchen made sure each slice had a dollop of Chevre and a baton of Lamb Pancetta.  The crispy, slightly salty, flatbread was perfect with the German beers that were ordered--a Steen and an Enbecker (non-alcoholic).

The Beaujolaise was accompanied by a pile of Lentils du Puy, while the Tunisienne sat on a bed of Lemon-braised Spinach & Chickpeas.  The Bangers were accompanied by Yorkshire Pudding (an American Popover), while the Andouille sat on top of soupy rice, garnished with fried Okra, and served in a cast iron skillet.  The Italian sausage was nestled among slow cooked Fennel, Tomato, Chilis & Garlic, while the Chorizo was served with a Piperade and Basil oil.  DBGB's famous Frites were a most enjoyable side dish. 

It was a perfect day for ice cream.  There are usually two or three diffferent sundaes on the menu.  Each sundae seems to have at least four components, in addition to the ice cream.  The Coffee Sundae was Coffee ice cream, soft Coffee Cake chunks, crunchy Chocolate Chip Cookie disks, roasted Hazel Nuts and Whipped Cream drizzled with some type of thin sauce (perhaps hazelnut).  The Caramel Sundae, wisely ordered without Whipped Cream, had as its base a delicious not-overly-sweet Chocolate Ice Cream, with chunks of Brownies and Candied Almonds, just to name a few of the additions.  Not into sundaes, but want some of the housemade ice cream?  Try the Chocolate Mint Ice Cream Sandwich--slabs of Chocolate Mint ice cream "sandwiched" between thinly sliced and toasted Brioche, and served in a puddle of Chocolate sauce.

After such a hearty meal, a long walk home is in order.

A Lesson Learned While Traveling by Air

It goes without saying that traveling by air is a royal pain.  However, I have realized it can be a journey in self-awareness.  Trying to deplane after a 5 hour+ flight, which departed 2+ hours late, I followed my companion into the narrow aisle, only to receive a very loud "Harrumph" from the woman behind me.  (Did I feel a slight body bump?)  In my effort to struggle down the aisle with my carry-on bag, my shoulder bag, and my cross-body purse, I had apparently cut her off from her companion who was carrying all their luggage.  She had her fake Birken bag to carry.  (Anyone with a real Birkin bag would have traveled in 1st class, not coach.)  I was sure to step out of her way, once I actually got off the plane.  Another "Harrumph" and she went sailing ahead.

As I gazed at the back of her head, I wondered, "Am I like that when I am at my wits end after an exhausting flight; and I want to avoid hyperventilating and/or screaming while waiting to deplane?"  I could imagine myself as the "Harrumpher," and I felt embarrassed for all the past times when I was she.  She made me realize how self-involved I can be when I am in my "Hurry up or I will knock you over" mode.  Not everyone speed walks through life.  A recent trip to California made we realize this; and of course, the "Harrumpher."

Apologies to all the tourists who have felt my scorn, as I have left them in the dust on Broadway.

Suenos is still a food lovers dream

Suenos still delivers flavorful, assertively spiced food using the full array of herbs and spices found in Mexican cuisine.  Delicious appetizers, recently sampled, include a Tequila Flamed Shrimp Stack with Avocado-Black Bean Salad, each stack served on a small, house-made tortilla, the shrimp perfectly cooked; and Rajas and Cheese Tamal topped with matchstick radishes plated with Mole Verde and Crema.  The "Winter" Entrees sampled were a delicious Tamarind Glazed Hanger Steack served with what tasted like mashed potatoes with a hint of chipotle smokiness; and a Plaintain crusted local Cod, served with a Salsa Verde Cruda and crisply grilled Chayote slices.  Was the fish also served with mashed plaintains or sweet potatoes, I could not tell?  Two of the desserts offered were crispy, greaseless Churros with two sauces on the side--Dulce de Leche and melted Bittersweet chocolate; a mountain-shaped Tres Leches cake with a Cherry-Anise Compote.

Am not a Margarita expert, but if you like lime, try Suzy's Smokin' Margarita which includes plenty of lime juice, Grand Marnier and, of course, Tequila.

Service is usually very attentive without being rushed or intrusive.  However, when there are more than one or two large parties, things slow down a bit; and you may have to reach out for service.

Suenos is always worth a visit.  Year after year, Sue Torres keeps the food interesting and delicious.

The Return of a Home Town Girl--Washington, D.C.

A long weekend back in Washington, D.C. after at least 5 years away.  The low density is Washington's biggest asset.  However, it is still a one-company town that gives off a very self-satisfied vibe.  This is still a city I would rather visit, than make my home. 

How did the Adams Morgan neighborhood become the hot thing?  Most of what is new are the constantly changing college bars on upper 18th Street, and the handful of restaurants at the crossroads of Columbia Road, 18th Street, and Calvert Street.  Venture south of 18th and Kalorama and the neighborhood looks like the same un-hip neighborhood where I grew up.  Of course, now there is the Unity Market on Saturdays, where representatives from the under-appreciated Latino community have food stalls.  This at least is an improvement.

There have been many restaurant changes on Connecticut Avenue between Calvert Street and Woodley Road.  While you can find edible food in this neighborhood, there is still not enough to support the locals and the tourists staying at the Marriott Wardman Park Hotel. 

Open City is the place to go for your morning "Red Eye" and an inviting array of breakfast offerings, which are also available all day.  Its Intelligencia coffee, moderate prices, no-rush service, and child-friendly atmosphere make this a busy place from dawn to dusk.

Vie de France still bakes some of the best french bread in town.  It is a reasonably priced alternative to the fast food offered at the Air and Space Museum, for which you will have to stand in line for at least 45 minutes.  There are several Vie de France locations, primarily in office building lobbies.

Nam Viet & Pho 79 (3419 Connecticut Ave., NW), across from the Uptown movie theater, serves decent Vietnamese food, generously portioned.  Authentic?  I am not able to judge.  The staff is accommodating and pleasant.

Tono Sushi (2605 Connecticut Ave., NW) is a popular after work sushi restaurant with a welcoming waitstaff, fresh food and affordable prices.   Do not expect the sushi and sashimi to be sublime.

The National Zoo is still a treat.  Parts of it are being well maintained, while other parts look a little neglected. 

The National Building Museum (401 F Street, NW) was a revelation with its Lego Exhibit.  I cannot understand why I found no mention of this exhibit in any of the Washington, D.C. on-line tourist sites. 

The Air and Space Museum is still a wonder, but how can it justify having only one set of restrooms on the second floor in operation on the opening weekend of the Cherry Blossom Festival, the real beginning of tourist season?  The space ice cream is still a treat.

Ben's Chili Bowl (1209 U Street, NW) is a guilty pleasure if you like chili hot dogs and chili half smokes.  I am sure the neighborhood "appreciates" the weekend influx of tourists crowding the regulars out.  More lines.

Le Verdure, Eataly, Again

Had a satisfying lunch at Le Verdure, the vegetable-centric restaurant in Eataly.  One of the daily specials was Ribolleta Soup with a Mixed Mushroom and Robiola Panino.  The soup was a simple vegetable with a tomato base, served in a small bowl.  The panino had the perfect ratio of mushroom to cheese, with neither overwhelming the other.  A glass of the Bastianich Rosato was a suitable accompaniment.

Sit at the counter or at one of the inside tables.  Sitting on the aisle at Le Verdure or at any of the eateries at Eataly is not relaxing with shoppers and browsers walking back and forth.  For lunch, or solo dining at any time of the day, I prefer the counter where you can watch what is going on in the open kitchen.  People watching is part of the fun of Eataly.

The service was excellent, attentive, but not intrusive.  Eataly must hire only people who genuinely want to work there, and who understand that a welcoming demeanor makes everyone's day better.

Malevich and the American Legacy. Gagosian Gallery

Hats off to the Gagosian Gallery.  Instead of displaying art for the sole purpose of selling it, the Gagosian has organized an exhibit of art that educates and enlightens the viewer.  Yes, the gallery does represent many of the American artist appearing in this show.  However, a real attempt, and a largely successful attempt, is made to show how Kazimir Malevich influenced, either directly or indirectly, these artists.

Not only is it a pleasure to see so many of Malevich's works in one place, but to see it in an uncrowded environment is a treat.  You can stand and look at a painting without getting in anyone's way.  I wish I could live with at least two of his works--"Suprematist Painting: Rectangle and Circle" and "Painterly Realism of a Football Player-Color Masses in the 4th Dimension."

The exhibit is mounted on three separate floors.  Be sure to pick up a copy of the exhibit plan for each floor, because the individual paintings are not labeled. The security guards will surprise you with their insights, if you take the time to chat with them.  Another advantage the Gagosian Gallery has over MOMA, the Whitney and the Met, etc.  However, the gallery staff does have just enough of that art gallery "hauteur" to remind you that you are not at a museum.

Thanks RR for joining me for this exhibit.

Musings from Ferran Adria, 92nd Street Y

Ferran Adria, Spanish chef, creative, innovative, risk taker.  Adria epitomizes the chef who welcomes you to eat what he has prepared.  No menu--do you offer a menu to people invited to dine in your home?  Chef as artist, unwilling, or perhaps unable, to repeat himself night after night.  Does a musician play the same music night after night?

If you accept raspberry sorbet as a valid way of serving a raspberry, even though it no longer has the look or texture of a fresh raspberry, why criticize Adria's olive essence which has been encapsulated?  It still tastes of olives.  (People who criticize his innovation have forgotten that innovation has been the hallmark of all the great chefs, from Careme to Escoffier to Daniel Boulud, Jean Georges Vongerichten, etc.)



ElBulli will close this summer to be replaced by the elBulli foundation, a place for ideas, creativity, innovation, and perhaps the public.


For more insights about Adria find Adam Gopnick's article in The New Yorker several months ago.

Cascabel Taqueria

The hunt for Mexican food continues.  Cascabel Taqueria,  1542 Second Avenue (80/81).  UES taqueria, not quite a restaurant, but not a joint either.  Tasty Avocado Pummelo Ensalada with grape tomatoes, fresh cilantro and plenty of red onions.  The avocado was ripe, generous, and a perfect foil for the red onions, slightly sour pummelo and sweet grape tomatoes.  Nice mix of textures.

Two tacos to an order, each served on two fresh corn tortillas.  The Tacos Pescardo consisted of a crispy fried piece of yellowfin tuna belly, topped with sliced hearts of palm, chopped olives and onions.  I am not a big fan of deep frying fish.  Perhaps a less delicately flavored fish should be used.  All ingredients tasted fresh.  Definitely want to return to try the tacos carnitas, and to sample the churros.

The staff is hospitable, from front to back.  A busy place, even early on a Thursday night. 

Ditch Plains, UWS, delivered.

After a long day at the computer, cooking was the farthest thing from my mind when I got home.  Am longing for the beach, so I ordered from the recently opened, Upper West Side branch of Ditch Plains.
(Ditch Plains is an East Coast surfing "mecca" on Long Island.)

The Lobster Roll is a generous portion of lobster salad served in a long, toasted potato roll.  While lightly spiced with an Old Bay-type seasoning, the lobster was a little salty.  The  accompanying Sweet Potato Chips were greaseless and appeared homemade.  The Beef Chili with beans was meaty, but not the least bit spicy.   The portion was a little small.  Even if you added the Cheddar Cheese that comes with your order to the chili, you would have to add a salad and a roll to make the Beef Chili into a meal.

Delivery was prompt, perhaps Tuesdays are not busy order-in days. 

"Hammer Guy" loves the fact that the menu is in rounded dollars, none of those silly $0.95 in each price. 

Bittman's "Braised and Roasted Chicken"

NYTimes Sunday Magazine, 3/13/11.  Worth the effort if you have a free afternoon and a staff of prep people.  The idea is good, but the cooking times need to be reduced to avoid mushy veggies and dried out dark meat.  Even when the veggies were cut in 3/4" dice, they became too soft.  Hate to admit that the yummiest part of the 3-part recipe (Quick Chicken Stock, Chicken-Skin Croutons, Braised Chicken w/Vegetables), was the chicken-skin croutons.  If you love the crispy, fatty skin that you find at the neck end of your Thanksgiving turkey, you will love the chicken-skin croutons.  They are in my fridge.  I would feel guilty if I just ate them as a snack.  Bittman suggest crumbling them on a salad, think bacon bits; or serving them as a snack.

This recipe is good practice for improving your knife skills.

Pear Oyster Bar

Still drawing crowds.  Eat early and avoid the mob.  Sit at the bar, if you can.  If you cannot, sit at the counter which runs along the left side of the restaurant.  If a place at the bar becomes available, before your food comes, the staff will move you without you having to ask.  Strayed away from the traditional  lobster roll served on an open-topped, New England style hot dog bun, and accompanied by shoestring fries, which were perfect last night.  The green leaf lettuce garnish, at first seemed like a frill, until I realized that it reminded me of all those lettuces you find at summer framers' markets.  Ah, summer.

The bouillabaisse was very good--a bowl of mussels, a few clams, a shrimp, a grilled sea scallop, a grilled piece of sea bass, and half a lobster tail swimming in a delicious broth.  While the broth was not the one you will find in the south of France, it was delicious.  A bit of toasted bread with a smear of aioli was a nice touch, even though I would have liked more aioli.  Fresh crsuty bread is served with a pot of butter to soak up that broth.  Too full for dessert, but the ice cream sundae looked yummy.

It was nice to see Rebecca Charles expediting the evening's meals.  Too often these days, the chef whose dream has come true is not present, and both the dream and the patrons suffer for this absence.

How to Meet Men

Wear a football (soccer) scarf.  All types of people, but mostly guys, will call out to you ("Go Hammers"), give you the thumbs up, or even strike up a conversation.  Football fans, living in or visiting the U.S. are so desperate and thankful to find a "fellow" fan, they will try and get your attention even when you are walking hand in hand with your sweetie.

Caterers in the City

If my food last night at Chelsea Piers is any indication, then Abigail Kirsch caterers has really gone down hill.  Hot Hors d'Oeuvres either ran out when the cocktail hour was only half over, or the kitchen decided in advance to limit the amount served.  The one hot Hors d'Oeuvres I tasted was a tasteless Smoked Salmon Croque Monsieur.  It was really a smear of smoked salmon on toast triangles half the size of an old fashioned book of matches.  No evidence of any traditional Croque Monsieur elements.  Cold Hors d'Oeuvres sampled include the Baja Fish Taco, the Banh Mi Slider and Waves & Foam--"roquefort foam on a wispy cracker with a port wine fig reduction."  The fish tacos were minute, the size of two thumb nails and the fish under-seasoned.  The Banh Mi Slider tasted of bread alone.  I guess that cracker was the Waves & Foam, another insipid bite.

The best thing about the Roasted Beets & Goat Cheese Brulee appetizer was the currant sunflower seed sliver of flatbread served with it.  The Peppercorn Steakhouse Beef was a round chunk of meat, not a filet mignon, cooked variously from well-down to what I heard was bloody, although I could not see a piece of rare meat at my table.  The best thing was the confit of slow roasted shallots.  This was served on about an ounce of cauliflower creamed spinach, although I could not detect any cauliflower.  The fingerling potatoes advertised as "smashed" were not.  The best part of the meal was the bread basket.  Everything tasted fresh.

For $300 a person you would think a better dessert than Bananas over Chocolate would be served.  I did not have the heart to stay for dessert.  The description was a bit over the top.

It irks me that caterers can still get away with exclusive arrangements with all the larger venues in the City.  This provides them with no incentive to keep the food good.  I am not even asking for spectacular, just good. 

Peter and the Starcatcher, Broadway bound?

Last night, I saw an entertaining new musical at the New York Theatre Workshop, "Peter and the Starcatcher, based on the Dave Barry and Ridley Pearson novel of the same name.  It was fun, clever and a delight.  It is a bit bawdy, a play for grown ups.  Should it live beyond its limited run downtown?  Most definitely, but should it make the broad jump to Broadway?  Less sure.  Aspects of the production that seemed clever, fun, and sweet might get lost on a gargantuan Broadway stage.  Perhaps an off-Broadway house would be a better venue to let this production maintain its air of intimacy and fun, while giving more theatregoers the opportunity to enjoy it.

It reminded me of "Spamalot" with its primarily no-name cast performing multiple roles; its occasional anarchy, broad acting style, and adult humor.  However, "Spamalot" came to Broadway with legions of Monte Python fans that would and did fill its Broadway house.  This production of "Peter and the Starcatchers" does not seem appropriate for the younger readers among the novel's fans.  One of this play's delights is that it is decidedly for adult fans of that iconic childhood hero, Peter Pan.

Eataly, Observed

Yes, Eataly is one of my favorite places in NYC.  If you must go on a Saturday, the best time to go is in the morning.  It opens at 10 a.m. and you can have an espresso, browse, or even shop without being trampled.  Did you know that there are even chairs near Manzo that are available just for sitting?  Every time I have been there, 9 times and counting, I have observed an employee going out of his or her way to  be helpful to a customer.  Why is it such a shock to be in a retail establishment where you are welcomed?

Parenting in the 21st Century

What has happened to parenting, that a pizza parlor has to post a sign that parents/adults should not leave young children unattended while in the restaurant?  I guess some people have not seen those faces on milk cartons, OR believe their children are so "smart" that they know how to handle themselves when alone in a restaurant.  I even have to remind myself to use my "restaurant voice," and I am well past childhood.

Cafe La Fortuna--random thoughts

While waiting for my lukewarm Starbucks coffee, my thoughts wandered to the past when there was a real cafe in my life.  Cafe La Fortuna.  Vincent and Alice.  Alice's sister who waited tables, and went to Italy for a visit and never came back.  Opera music.  Exposed brick walls full of opera memorabilia.  The first decaffinated espresso I ever drank that tasted like espresso.  When it opened it was half a store front, two steps down from the sidewalk with a garden in the back.  The regulars who sat at the first table inside the door, when Vincent wasn't sitting there himself, included Joe who always had something to sell.  My first taste of Veniero's Italian Cheesecake.  It put the cream cheese type to shame and out of my life forever.  I never baked another one again.  Walking to La Fortuna from the West 80's taught my boys how to walk.  A half mile or more was nothing.  Summertime, iced cappucinos with homemade coffee flavored Italian ice.  An uncomfortable afternoon in the garden bearing witness to a couple breaking up.  Sideways glances at the occasional celebrity who lived in the neighborhood.  The two Gregorys, waiters, one an aspiring poet and the other a caterer to be.

It was not Starbucks or fame that claimed the life of Cafe La Fortuna.  It was love.  The love a parent has for a child, that would trust the child to be able to take over a business the parent had built.  Unfortunately, we are sometimes blinded by this love, and do not realize that our children are not capable enough.

It was heartbreaking to see Vincent come out of retirement to sit at the cash register once again.  Even sadder when he was there after his beloved Alice had passed away.  A place that love built had to end when those two lovers died.

Chocolate Chip Cookies

Best crispy chocolate chip cookie--Jacques Torres', ask them to warm it up, a bargain at $2.75.

Best soft chocolate chip cookie--Levain Bakery, ask for a fresh one from the oven.  Connie and her staff could not be nicer.  If you do not like chocolate chip cookies, try a hot oatmeal raisin scone, better than mine.

Food Trucks

Why are The Treats Truck and the Super Tacos Truck the only decent food trucks on the Upper West Side, south of 96th Street? 

Did our indifference drive away Rickshaw Dumplings and Dinges and Wafels?

Street Sweets truck--baked goods not any better than what you would find at the Gourmet Garage.

Do not patronize the food cart in front of Trader Joe's.  Lo Mein is not spaghetti!  Prefried dumplings are an insult. 

Do you wear a fragrance?

Do not wear so much fragrance that it arrives in the room before you do.  If you must call attention to yourself, do everyone a favor and do not go to a restaurant where the food is the focus.  Your scent should not be competing with the aroma of the food.

Eataly

The best thing that has happened to Italian food since Dino DeLaurentiis' Food Hall.  So many delicious things to eat and to buy.  The staff could not be more welcoming or more helpful, always eager to answer questions.  A delight to be able to have a real espresso machiato, and not what passes for one in most NYC coffee bars.  The only negative is the crowds which seem to be made of Italian tourists, curious foodies and people trying to shop.

The Eataly Scuola is a treat that will not remain under the radar for long.  The four Italian language classes which focus on meals, provide a delicious and informative introduction to both the cuisine and language of Italy.  The first class, Colazione, focused on the vocabulary one might encounter at this "meal," the tricky pronounciation of "c" and "g."   No colazione would be complete without the Lavazza espresso which accompanied the fresh cornetti--three sweet ones--Cioccolato, Lampone, Albicocc--and one savory--prosciutto.  The second class, Pranzo, began with a children's song, "Oggi Prepariamo La Tavola in Italiano," a fun way to learn vocabulary.  Our pranzo was prepared by Eataly's executive chef and included an antipasti of Fiori di latte, paté of olives, carciofo marinato, prosciutto di Parma and prosciutto cotto accompanied by white wine.  The primi was artisanal, dried spaghetti served in a simple tomato sauce made from canned tomatoes, accompanied by a delicious red wine, Borgogno's Barbera d'Alba Superiore.   We ended our meal with frutto--blood oranges and grapes.  A simple end to a nicely composed pranzo.  Next week, on to Appertivi!

BLT Prime

Another steakhouse that refuses to be a "Palm" clone.  On average the clientele is younger and more international than one would usually find at any of the City's Palm branches.  The steaks do not disappoint, the chicken liver amuse bouche is a welcome surprise, as were the popovers.  Fresh asparagus, simply grilled, delicious.  Bearnaise sauce lacked the oomph of a homemade one.  The peanut butter mousse with banana ice cream was a surprising pleasure.

2/27/11 West Ham United

Bravo to the Hammers who exceeded all my expectations today in their 3-1 victory over Liverpool.  The Hammers dominated the first half and was clearly the better team.  While Liverpool tested them during the last 15 minutes of the match, the Hammers held on and added a third goal for good measure.  Well done to all!

Blue Hill

The Farmer's Feast, a wonderful introduction to Dan Barber's restaurant and philosophy.  Will try to return each season to try menus that will surely reflect the best available.

WHU

Why are you breaking my heart?

Almond Croissant

Georgia's Bakeshop. Plenty of almond paste, and not too sweet. Highly recommended.

Bayliss' Queso Fundido Empanadas

Nice weekend sandwich alternative. Easy to make with store-bought pizza dough (Rick's recommendation), pre-cooked Chorizo, and quality roasted peppers from a jar. Am sure using Batali's "quick and easy" pizza dough recipe added to the taste of these empanadas. No need for salsa, the filling is spicy enough.