Today, we started a journey to circumnavigate the island of Manhattan, staying along the water as much as possible. The focus was not the skyline, but what was going on along the waterfront itself.
We started at the Staten Island Ferry Terminal and headed East along the water. We passed the ferry terminal to Governor's Island, and saw three helicopters land on the East River Heliport at Pier 6.
At Old Slip and South Street, we spotted the NYC Police Museum, who even knew it was there?
At the foot of Wall Street, a huge line snaked under the FDR. People were waiting to board the Seastreak for the 30 minute ride to the beaches of Sandy Hook, NJ. Judging by the length of the line, and hearing the moans when the crowd was told you had to buy tickets to board the ship, a mid-week trip to Sandy Hook is best. Sharing Pier 11 with the Seastreak are the Water Taxis to Brooklyn. The crowds kept us from discovering Cheng's installation at the pier's tip. Another time.
The South Street Seaport Museum Ships are found at Piers 15, 16 and 17. The former Rouse retail complex at Pier Pavilion 17 is anchored on the ground floor by Johnny Rockets, and on the second floor by Pizzeria Uno. Haven't a clue or a care about what retail stores can be found inside. This is tourist heaven with street vendors selling the latest "hot" sunglasses, handbags and other assorted knickknacks.
On South Street I spotted several loading bays with signs for some farmers' market stallworths--Migliori's farm, the pickle people, Granddaisy's Bakery, etc. However, I was not curious enough to interrupt my journey North to stop and find out if there is indeed a covered farmers' market in one of the old fishmongers' buildings. Maybe another time.
Strolling along under the FDR, dodging bike riders and joggers, I tried to stay as close to the water as possible. However, there is construction and maintenance going on, but it does not keep you away from the foot of the Brooklyn Bridge.
As always, the Brooklyn Bridge was compelling, even from underneath, on the Manhattan side. What is it about this bridge that just speaks to me? It seems both delicate and solid at the same time. The details are a delight to behold, whether observing them from below, or while crossing it on foot.
Continuing our walk North, we discovered the Two Bridges neighborhood. A little known waterfront neighborhood between the Brooklyn Bridge and the Manhattan Bridge. It shares the underside of the FDR with a curious collection of old cars--Thunderbirds, Buicks, Chevy's, all of the 1960's vintage. Why are they there? Who is guarding them? Why isn't someone taking better care of them?
We passed fisherfolk and a few people doing Tai Chi. Not unexpected since Chinatown is due West of this neighborhood. Close to the foot of the Manhattan Bridge was a baseball field, with restrooms and the name "Verizon Fields." Does this belong to Verizon, to the City; is it part of a public school? No matter, it was empty. Not a soul using it on such a glorious day.
If you are alert, you will catch a glimpse of McKim, Mead & White's Gouverneur Hospital, an old City hospital with tiers of curved verandas.
Between the Manhattan Bridge and Williamsburg Bridge, you are reminded that this is both a working waterfront and a recreational area. After you past the Sanitation Department's complex, you come upon the East River Park Amphitheater and a derelict City owned Environmental Education Center. There are tennis courts, softball diamonds, and baseball fields with lights sharing space with soccer pitches.
Part 1 of this journey ended at East Houston/FDR interchange, where we dodged two lanes of traffic to leave the waterfront.
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