Ferran Adria, Spanish chef, creative, innovative, risk taker. Adria epitomizes the chef who welcomes you to eat what he has prepared. No menu--do you offer a menu to people invited to dine in your home? Chef as artist, unwilling, or perhaps unable, to repeat himself night after night. Does a musician play the same music night after night?
If you accept raspberry sorbet as a valid way of serving a raspberry, even though it no longer has the look or texture of a fresh raspberry, why criticize Adria's olive essence which has been encapsulated? It still tastes of olives. (People who criticize his innovation have forgotten that innovation has been the hallmark of all the great chefs, from Careme to Escoffier to Daniel Boulud, Jean Georges Vongerichten, etc.)
ElBulli will close this summer to be replaced by the elBulli foundation, a place for ideas, creativity, innovation, and perhaps the public.
For more insights about Adria find Adam Gopnick's article in The New Yorker several months ago.
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