What is behind one's impulse to document the minutiae of one's vacation?
Friday, 8/15/14: Legal Seafoods, Warwick, RI. Why has my mind embellished the memory of many satisfying meals here? Satisfying crab cakes, pleasant service, but the high point of previous meals, the onion strings, was under-whelming. Memory tricks?
Saturday, 8/16/14: Quicks Hole Taqueria, Woods Hole, MA. This taqueria erased the memory of last year's poorly made lobster roll with its Grilled Cod Baja Bowl, a burrito without the tortilla graced with a portion of properly grilled cod.
Saturday, 8/16/14: the Seafood Shanty, Edgartown, MA. An old standby that is not going to throw you any surprises, but is going to serve you what you expect. Wonderfully deep fried scallops, not the least bit over-cooked. How do these New Englanders know how to properly fry and cook fish? Even in the places without "chefs," the cooks invariably get it right.
Sunday, 8/17/14: 7A Foods, West Tisbury, MA. Trendy food shop that often delivers on its promise. A tasty Pork Italiano sandwich is quite satisfying and a needed break after 3 days of fish eaten twice a day. Its generous portion of roasted pork shoulder with broccoli rabe, provolone, ricotta salata and preserved lemon on a sub roll was much appreciated.
Monday, 8/18/14: Orange Peel Bakery, Aquinnah, MA. A pre-beach snack is in order. Bought a freshly baked Sunday Morning Snail pastry and a cheese and scallion scone for later. Made a mental note to come some Wednesday for Pizza Night.
Monday, 8/18/14: Chilmark General Store, Chilmark, MA. An old stalwart that does not disappoint with its pizza, almost as good as anything found in the City. Delicious french bread baked in the pizza oven is always taken home.
Monday, 8/18/14: Larsen's Fish Market, Menemsha, MA. Order your lobsters in the morning, and they will be ready for pick up at dinner time. Lobsters are boiled to perfection. Is that Betsy Larsen still doing the cooking? Be sure to have at least a half dozen Katama Bay Oysters before you head home with your lobster dinner.
Tuesday, 8/19/14: Linda Jean's, Oak Bluffs, MA. Have to have the fried scallop plate and their fantastically delicious onion rings. I never order anything else. Neither of these two dishes are ever going to be cooked in my kitchen. I just do not have the knack, training, or whatever to properly fry scallops or onion rings. Neither are ever greasy or overdone. One secret to the onion rings is that Linda Jean's uses onions with flavor.
Wednesday, 8/20/14: West Tisbury Farmers' Market. Breakfast at the market includes--Khen's Vietnamese summer rolls, Pie Chicks' fig & almond scones, and Bob's Bakery's cinnamon walnut rugelach. The summer rolls have been my market breakfast tradition for 20+ years. Khen and I have gone gray together. The surprise this year was the quality of the scones and rugelach, both tender and rich. I am so often disappointed by commercially made scones, that it is a real treat to eat a tender, tasty one that are as good as my own.
Thursday, 8/21/14: annual MV Agricultural Society, Ag Fair. Pigs, horses, goats, oxen, prize wining quilts, scones, tomatoes, sunflowers, etc. Everything that you would expect at an agricultural fair and more. Typical fair food and local specialties: the West Tisbury Fire Department's hamburger stand, Deon's Jamaican specialties (fried conch), Local Smoke Pulled Pork sandwiches (served with a divine fresh corn & tomato salad), and Flatbread Pizza to name a few.
Thursday, 8/21/14: The Beach Plum Restaurant, Menemsha, MA. Chris Fisher still the chef behind the stove. Started with the Beetlebung greens simply dressed with lemon and garnished with parmesan. The crostata of the day--fresh tomato slices with olive oil on grilled--showcased the delicious tomato. Whole grilled fluke for two was served with head and tail intact, and garnished with roasted potatoes and a crock of aioli. The fish seemed a minute overcooked and the aioli would have been enhanced by a little salt. Sometimes something can be too subtle. Finally a peach dessert that did not disappoint. A tender cookie-like crust with sliced peaches garnished with pureed peaches. Ahh, summer.
Thursday, August 21, 2014
Sunday, January 26, 2014
The Art of Dessert
ChikaLicious, 203 East 10th Street
Three Citrus sorbet with Creme Fraiche
Fromage Blanc Island "Cheese Cake"
Warm Chocolate Tart with Coffee Granita & Espresso gelato
Petits Fours: Coconut Marshmallows, Shortbread with sage?, Sugar cookie with Chocolate Mousse
Three Citrus sorbet with Creme Fraiche
Fromage Blanc Island "Cheese Cake"
Warm Chocolate Tart with Coffee Granita & Espresso gelato
Petits Fours: Coconut Marshmallows, Shortbread with sage?, Sugar cookie with Chocolate Mousse
Saturday, March 30, 2013
Football Madness!
Smithfield. 215 West 28th Street (7th & 8th Avenues).
This tavern has surpassed Nevada Smith's as the go-to-venue for football. Every league gets it due from the EPL to La Ligue to Serie A to the Bundesliga, the Eredivisie, etc. Not only are there three floors of screens, but the food is reasonably priced and good to boot. The wait staff is great, welcoming even at 7:30 a.m.! There are plenty of clean, well-stocked restrooms.
Breakfast & Beer menu is sure to please the fans who come for the early morning matches. The Brekky Sanger is a hardy way to start the morning while watching your team. It's a filling sandwich of organic fried eggs and Irish pork sausage on Pullman bread. For something lighter, closer to lunchtime, try the Chopped Salad, freshly made and properly dressed with bits of pine nuts, dates, crisp shredded lettuce and various other tidbits. All your favorite beers are available from the early morning dato last call.
This tavern has surpassed Nevada Smith's as the go-to-venue for football. Every league gets it due from the EPL to La Ligue to Serie A to the Bundesliga, the Eredivisie, etc. Not only are there three floors of screens, but the food is reasonably priced and good to boot. The wait staff is great, welcoming even at 7:30 a.m.! There are plenty of clean, well-stocked restrooms.
Breakfast & Beer menu is sure to please the fans who come for the early morning matches. The Brekky Sanger is a hardy way to start the morning while watching your team. It's a filling sandwich of organic fried eggs and Irish pork sausage on Pullman bread. For something lighter, closer to lunchtime, try the Chopped Salad, freshly made and properly dressed with bits of pine nuts, dates, crisp shredded lettuce and various other tidbits. All your favorite beers are available from the early morning dato last call.
Not Your Neighborhood Italian Market
Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria. 53 Great Jones Street (Bowery & Lafayette), NYC.
Roast Porchetta Panino. Not for those watching their cholesterol. This sandwich is a generous portion of Porchetta served on a crispy, crusty house-made roll. The portion was obviously sliced from a rolled pork roast which would make natives of Lazio proud. The slice included the crunchy skin and a rich layer of pork fat surrounding the moist pork and its Salsa Verde. Peppery Baby Arugula in the sandwich was a nice counterpoint to all that fat! A small side dish included Pickled Cauliflower, a Baby Carrot and a small Onion. These pickled vegetables were also a nice contrast to the rich pork.
A generous slice of Olive Oil Cake was a satisfying dessert with its hint of lemon. Black and Green teas are served by the pot; and a full menu of espresso drinks are available.
Sit at the 6-seat counter in the Alimentari. The wait-staff could not have been nicer, or more professional. They graciously answered any and all questions--about the food, the wine, the fancy beer and wine pulls, etc. Water glasses are routinely filled, even though the water carafe sits in front of you. Every effort is successfully made to make a diner feel welcomed.
Roast Porchetta Panino. Not for those watching their cholesterol. This sandwich is a generous portion of Porchetta served on a crispy, crusty house-made roll. The portion was obviously sliced from a rolled pork roast which would make natives of Lazio proud. The slice included the crunchy skin and a rich layer of pork fat surrounding the moist pork and its Salsa Verde. Peppery Baby Arugula in the sandwich was a nice counterpoint to all that fat! A small side dish included Pickled Cauliflower, a Baby Carrot and a small Onion. These pickled vegetables were also a nice contrast to the rich pork.
A generous slice of Olive Oil Cake was a satisfying dessert with its hint of lemon. Black and Green teas are served by the pot; and a full menu of espresso drinks are available.
Sit at the 6-seat counter in the Alimentari. The wait-staff could not have been nicer, or more professional. They graciously answered any and all questions--about the food, the wine, the fancy beer and wine pulls, etc. Water glasses are routinely filled, even though the water carafe sits in front of you. Every effort is successfully made to make a diner feel welcomed.
Sunday, March 10, 2013
No Joyous Noise from this Calliope
Calliope, 84 East 4th Street, New York, NY 10003.
Finally had a chance to try this much heralded, relatively new, spot in the East Village. Perhaps the kitchen is overwhelmed by its success, or perhaps there is too little new-style French bistro cooking in the City so any attempt is lauded. It was an up and down meal.
The complimentary anchovy toast with radishes is served as two big thick slices of nice crusty bread lightly toasted with a schmeer of anchovy spread, and a side of whole radishes. It would have been easier to eat, and tastier too, if the toast were smaller and the radishes were sliced and presented on top of each piece of toast. Eaten at the same time these individual elements were more complementary.
UP: The Eggs Mayo appetizer does not disappoint. Three perfectly cooked boiled eggs with ever so slightly runny centers are served whole, sprinkled with fresh chives, and drizzled with a delicious house-made mayo. The deep orange color of the yolks testified to the eggs' freshness. A very nice starter.
DOWN: However, a curious thing happened when we were presented with this starter. The waiter asked if we wanted the entrees along with the starter, or if we wanted them held since they were ready!? We requested the entrees be served when we were done with the eggs. We presumed the waiter did not really mean that our entrees were literally ready and being held. (The restaurant was only half full, and the expediting should not have been mistimed.)
DOWN: While the Rabbit with Pappardelle was tasty, the pasta was slightly overcooked. Fresh pasta is always tricky. Timing is important. It is too easy to overcook fresh pasta and have it turn it into paste.
UP: The Hot and Sour Braised Lamb Neck was well spiced and accompanied by mascarpone agnoletti. The lamb was served in a braising liquid that was a good balance of hot and sour.
UP: The Market Vegetable was the ubiquitous Brussels Sprout sauteed and served with Thai chilies. The server noticed my reticence, and suggested that the chef could go light on the chilies. The Brussels Sprouts were served crispy with a hint of heat. Good suggestion.
DOWN: For dessert the Green Apple and Pear Tart was shared. The portion came sliced in two with creme fraiche. Unfortunately, one of the halves was unevenly cooked and burnt looking. Having baked a number of fruit tarts myself, I would never serve a "guest" such an unsightly looking serving.
UP: The tea is properly served in a pot and the Americano had crema floating on top which attested to its really being pulled and not poured from a pre-made pot of coffee.
UP: The service is generally solicitous, and cannot be blamed for what happens in the kitchen. The restaurant still sends a portion of your check to two local theatre groups--the New York Theatre Workshop and La Mama--when you let them know you are a supporter.
As talented as the chefs are supposed to be, I would not make a special trip to eat here again. In addition, there are at least two or three too many two tops. The tables are so close together, you can accidentally put your elbow in a neighbor's plate. A party of 7 were seated at a table only big enough for 6.
Finally had a chance to try this much heralded, relatively new, spot in the East Village. Perhaps the kitchen is overwhelmed by its success, or perhaps there is too little new-style French bistro cooking in the City so any attempt is lauded. It was an up and down meal.
The complimentary anchovy toast with radishes is served as two big thick slices of nice crusty bread lightly toasted with a schmeer of anchovy spread, and a side of whole radishes. It would have been easier to eat, and tastier too, if the toast were smaller and the radishes were sliced and presented on top of each piece of toast. Eaten at the same time these individual elements were more complementary.
UP: The Eggs Mayo appetizer does not disappoint. Three perfectly cooked boiled eggs with ever so slightly runny centers are served whole, sprinkled with fresh chives, and drizzled with a delicious house-made mayo. The deep orange color of the yolks testified to the eggs' freshness. A very nice starter.
DOWN: However, a curious thing happened when we were presented with this starter. The waiter asked if we wanted the entrees along with the starter, or if we wanted them held since they were ready!? We requested the entrees be served when we were done with the eggs. We presumed the waiter did not really mean that our entrees were literally ready and being held. (The restaurant was only half full, and the expediting should not have been mistimed.)
DOWN: While the Rabbit with Pappardelle was tasty, the pasta was slightly overcooked. Fresh pasta is always tricky. Timing is important. It is too easy to overcook fresh pasta and have it turn it into paste.
UP: The Hot and Sour Braised Lamb Neck was well spiced and accompanied by mascarpone agnoletti. The lamb was served in a braising liquid that was a good balance of hot and sour.
UP: The Market Vegetable was the ubiquitous Brussels Sprout sauteed and served with Thai chilies. The server noticed my reticence, and suggested that the chef could go light on the chilies. The Brussels Sprouts were served crispy with a hint of heat. Good suggestion.
DOWN: For dessert the Green Apple and Pear Tart was shared. The portion came sliced in two with creme fraiche. Unfortunately, one of the halves was unevenly cooked and burnt looking. Having baked a number of fruit tarts myself, I would never serve a "guest" such an unsightly looking serving.
UP: The tea is properly served in a pot and the Americano had crema floating on top which attested to its really being pulled and not poured from a pre-made pot of coffee.
UP: The service is generally solicitous, and cannot be blamed for what happens in the kitchen. The restaurant still sends a portion of your check to two local theatre groups--the New York Theatre Workshop and La Mama--when you let them know you are a supporter.
As talented as the chefs are supposed to be, I would not make a special trip to eat here again. In addition, there are at least two or three too many two tops. The tables are so close together, you can accidentally put your elbow in a neighbor's plate. A party of 7 were seated at a table only big enough for 6.
Saturday, February 2, 2013
Antidote for the Winter Blues.
Luke's Lobster. 426 Amsterdam Avenue (82nd/81st Streets). 2/2/13.
Nothing reminds me of summer more than a fresh lobster roll. Thankfully, Luke's Lobster does not close for the winter.
The lobster rolls are generous, the Cape Cod Chips potato-ey, and the Maine Root Ginger Beer tangy. Today's lobster roll was full of claw meat, drizzled with butter and nicely peppered. The New England-style hot dog bun was lightly toasted. A half-sour pickle spear, served on the side, was crunchy, and provided a nice textural contrast. For heat seekers there are squeeze bottles of Red Rooster Sriracha sauce on every countertop.
The "fish shack"decor seems to bring out a relaxed, 'it's summer" attitude, that leads to amiable table sharing at this limited seating spot.
Nothing reminds me of summer more than a fresh lobster roll. Thankfully, Luke's Lobster does not close for the winter.
The lobster rolls are generous, the Cape Cod Chips potato-ey, and the Maine Root Ginger Beer tangy. Today's lobster roll was full of claw meat, drizzled with butter and nicely peppered. The New England-style hot dog bun was lightly toasted. A half-sour pickle spear, served on the side, was crunchy, and provided a nice textural contrast. For heat seekers there are squeeze bottles of Red Rooster Sriracha sauce on every countertop.
The "fish shack"decor seems to bring out a relaxed, 'it's summer" attitude, that leads to amiable table sharing at this limited seating spot.
UES Hospitality
Corrado Bread and Pastry. 1361 Lexington Avenue at 90th Street, NYC. 1/31/13.
While wandering around the UES one evening looking for something sweet to eat, before attending a superb production of "Fiddler on the Roof," but not wanting to go to Starbucks, I stumbled into Corrado Bread and Pastry.
In a city often characterized as cold and rude, and often rightly so, the counter staff at this Upper East Side location are the welcomed exception. On a cold winter night, each customer that crossed the threshold was warmly greeted. Not an auto-pilot greeting, but a "look you in the eye" welcome. When someone takes the time to serve you in a cordial manner, it is hard to be rude and in a rush.
The pecan bar was yummy, full of pecans on a tender base and not overly sweet. With a cup of tea this was a perfect dessert. Be warned there is only a slim counter at the window at which to sit. Most customers took their orders with them--sandwiches, macarons, pastries, cookies, etc.
It was a pleasure to patronize a place that really wants your business, and by its example brings out the best in its customers.
While wandering around the UES one evening looking for something sweet to eat, before attending a superb production of "Fiddler on the Roof," but not wanting to go to Starbucks, I stumbled into Corrado Bread and Pastry.
In a city often characterized as cold and rude, and often rightly so, the counter staff at this Upper East Side location are the welcomed exception. On a cold winter night, each customer that crossed the threshold was warmly greeted. Not an auto-pilot greeting, but a "look you in the eye" welcome. When someone takes the time to serve you in a cordial manner, it is hard to be rude and in a rush.
The pecan bar was yummy, full of pecans on a tender base and not overly sweet. With a cup of tea this was a perfect dessert. Be warned there is only a slim counter at the window at which to sit. Most customers took their orders with them--sandwiches, macarons, pastries, cookies, etc.
It was a pleasure to patronize a place that really wants your business, and by its example brings out the best in its customers.
Burger Bite
Shake Shack, 154 E. 86th Street, NYC. 1/31/13.
Sometimes you just need a burger, and do not want to spend $10+. In spite of its popularity, Shake Shack can still satisfy your hunger for red meat. While fast becoming a chain, the Shake Shack is still not a "chain." The Shack Burger is an Angus beef patty, cooked at the time of order, and served with cheese, lettuce, tomato, and ShackSauce on a potato bun.
The freshness of the ingredients is what makes the difference. The burger patty is fresh, not frozen. The lettuce is green and leafy. The tomato slices are red. The potato bun is fresh.
This is fast food that is not "fast." While waits can be expected, the quality of the product is worth it.
Sometimes you just need a burger, and do not want to spend $10+. In spite of its popularity, Shake Shack can still satisfy your hunger for red meat. While fast becoming a chain, the Shake Shack is still not a "chain." The Shack Burger is an Angus beef patty, cooked at the time of order, and served with cheese, lettuce, tomato, and ShackSauce on a potato bun.
The freshness of the ingredients is what makes the difference. The burger patty is fresh, not frozen. The lettuce is green and leafy. The tomato slices are red. The potato bun is fresh.
This is fast food that is not "fast." While waits can be expected, the quality of the product is worth it.
Friday, January 25, 2013
A Hidden Oasis in the Midst of Crowded Soho
Despana Fine Foods & Tapas Café, 408 Broome Street, NYC 10013. 1/25/13.
When your feet and ears need a break from shopping in Soho, wander over to Despana Fine Foods & Tapas Café on Broome Street. In the back, past the groceries, cheeses, and meats there is a counter from which you can order food. This trip a Cortado Doble and a slice of Tarta de Santiago (flourless, almond tort from Galicia) was all that was required. While the espresso might not have been the most expertly drawn, it was tasty enough; and the tarta was a perfect accompaniment, not too sweet. There are several communal tables with chairs in a cozy room to the left of the food counter. To the right there is a small alcove presided over by the head of a big, black steer mounted securely on the wall, and a small, marble topped table and stools.
The Tapas Café menu includes Tapas, Pintxos, Bocadillos, Tortillas, Salads, Soups and Dessert. I can hardly wait for a return visit to try the cafe menu. The pleasant and helpful staff make the cafe an ideal place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Soho.
When your feet and ears need a break from shopping in Soho, wander over to Despana Fine Foods & Tapas Café on Broome Street. In the back, past the groceries, cheeses, and meats there is a counter from which you can order food. This trip a Cortado Doble and a slice of Tarta de Santiago (flourless, almond tort from Galicia) was all that was required. While the espresso might not have been the most expertly drawn, it was tasty enough; and the tarta was a perfect accompaniment, not too sweet. There are several communal tables with chairs in a cozy room to the left of the food counter. To the right there is a small alcove presided over by the head of a big, black steer mounted securely on the wall, and a small, marble topped table and stools.
The Tapas Café menu includes Tapas, Pintxos, Bocadillos, Tortillas, Salads, Soups and Dessert. I can hardly wait for a return visit to try the cafe menu. The pleasant and helpful staff make the cafe an ideal place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Soho.
Perfect Lunch fro 20 Degree Weather
Shanghai Café Déluxe, 100 Mott Street, NYC 10013. 1/25/13.
What can be more satisfying than hot, freshly "Steamed Tiny Buns with Pork?" These "buns" are more commonly referred to as soup dumplings. No matter what you call them, they were a welcomed lunch on a frigid day. At lunch there is a $4.95 per person minimum. Since the Tiny Buns with Pork are $4.95 for 8, you just have to order more food. We tried the Sticky Rice in Bamboo Leaf ($2.95), which was hot and gooey with chunks of roasted pork with bacon-y tasting edges. Decidedly different from my paw-paw's Cantonese-style sticky rice, but still quite tasty. Shredded Turnip Short Cake ($3.95) was indeed shredded turnip, mildy seasoned, in what the French would call a pâte brisée. Turnips count as veggies, don't they? Eating the Chinese cabbage leaves upon which the tiny buns were steamed also helped make this a well-rounded meal. Total cost $12.90.
What can be more satisfying than hot, freshly "Steamed Tiny Buns with Pork?" These "buns" are more commonly referred to as soup dumplings. No matter what you call them, they were a welcomed lunch on a frigid day. At lunch there is a $4.95 per person minimum. Since the Tiny Buns with Pork are $4.95 for 8, you just have to order more food. We tried the Sticky Rice in Bamboo Leaf ($2.95), which was hot and gooey with chunks of roasted pork with bacon-y tasting edges. Decidedly different from my paw-paw's Cantonese-style sticky rice, but still quite tasty. Shredded Turnip Short Cake ($3.95) was indeed shredded turnip, mildy seasoned, in what the French would call a pâte brisée. Turnips count as veggies, don't they? Eating the Chinese cabbage leaves upon which the tiny buns were steamed also helped make this a well-rounded meal. Total cost $12.90.
Sunday, January 20, 2013
Kefi, Neighborhood Stalwart
Kefi, 505 Columbus Avenue, between W. 84th and W. 85th, NYC, 1/18/13
Moderately priced Greek restaurant that never disappoints. A neighborhood favorite.
The grilled octopus, slightly smokey and tender, and served with a tasty bean salad of chick peas, black-eye peas and red peppers is a meze that never disappoints. Tender meatballs with roasted garlic and a melange of olives will appeal to the meat lover in the group.
A generous lamb shank was cooked to "falling off the bone" perfection and served with orzo. The grilled hanger steak was cooked exactly as ordered, and was accompanied by manouri (a Greek cheese) and seasonal brussel spouts. Both entrees were generous enough to require doggy bags, and made a wonderful lunch the next day. The chicken souvlaki sandwich was served in fresh pita bread and plated with a generous portion of Greek salad and homemade chips.
The galaktobouriko with orange spoon fruit is the dessert to try-sweet, but not too sweet, with a custardlike consistency. The lemon sorbet was suitably tart. The walnut cake is usually moist, but this time was a little dry. The walnut ice cream made it edible.
Kefi is a restaurant that warmly welcomes everyone whether you are ordering a three course meal or just having one of their delicious sandwiches. In spite of the moderate prices, there is never any pressure to order more than you want to eat. An UWS asset.
Moderately priced Greek restaurant that never disappoints. A neighborhood favorite.
The grilled octopus, slightly smokey and tender, and served with a tasty bean salad of chick peas, black-eye peas and red peppers is a meze that never disappoints. Tender meatballs with roasted garlic and a melange of olives will appeal to the meat lover in the group.
A generous lamb shank was cooked to "falling off the bone" perfection and served with orzo. The grilled hanger steak was cooked exactly as ordered, and was accompanied by manouri (a Greek cheese) and seasonal brussel spouts. Both entrees were generous enough to require doggy bags, and made a wonderful lunch the next day. The chicken souvlaki sandwich was served in fresh pita bread and plated with a generous portion of Greek salad and homemade chips.
The galaktobouriko with orange spoon fruit is the dessert to try-sweet, but not too sweet, with a custardlike consistency. The lemon sorbet was suitably tart. The walnut cake is usually moist, but this time was a little dry. The walnut ice cream made it edible.
Kefi is a restaurant that warmly welcomes everyone whether you are ordering a three course meal or just having one of their delicious sandwiches. In spite of the moderate prices, there is never any pressure to order more than you want to eat. An UWS asset.
Sunday, January 13, 2013
Cocina Economica, Welcomed Addition to the UWS
Cocina Economica, 252 Amsterdam Avenue, NYC 1/05/13
Ensalada de Nopalitos (cactus salad): String beans, cilantro, breakfast raddish, jicama, toasted almonds, serrano pepper lime vinaigrette.
Cazuelas (casseroles): Served with fresh tortillas and stewed beans.
Carne de Cerdo: braised pork shoulder with zucchini, chayote, string beans, huauzontle and tomatilla salsa.
Costillas de res: Hoja Santa stewed short ribs with carrots, collard greens, string beans, epazote and puya guajillo chili.
Tiny, moderately priced restaurant, offering home-style Mexican cooking overseen by a native of Puebla. Not your usual enchilada-fajitas-taco joint. Platillos include both casseroles and grilled entrees. Dishes are well seasoned to enhance your enjoyment of the different types of chilis used. Spicy does not equal hot. Mexican hospitality at its finest--warm, welcoming and genuine.
Ensalada de Nopalitos (cactus salad): String beans, cilantro, breakfast raddish, jicama, toasted almonds, serrano pepper lime vinaigrette.
Cazuelas (casseroles): Served with fresh tortillas and stewed beans.
Carne de Cerdo: braised pork shoulder with zucchini, chayote, string beans, huauzontle and tomatilla salsa.
Costillas de res: Hoja Santa stewed short ribs with carrots, collard greens, string beans, epazote and puya guajillo chili.
Tiny, moderately priced restaurant, offering home-style Mexican cooking overseen by a native of Puebla. Not your usual enchilada-fajitas-taco joint. Platillos include both casseroles and grilled entrees. Dishes are well seasoned to enhance your enjoyment of the different types of chilis used. Spicy does not equal hot. Mexican hospitality at its finest--warm, welcoming and genuine.
Watch Out Morimoto-san!
Ichimura at Brushstroke, 30 Hudson Street, NYC, $$$$12/27/12
Edo-Mae Sushi, Omakase menu only.
Master Eiji Ichimura personally serves you a fantastic, leisurely, dinner composed almost entirely of sashimi which has been gently aged. At the beginning of the meal he will ask if you have any allergies or preferences. Leave the choice up to Ichimura-san. and be prepared for a real experience. Each piece of fish is expertly carved from a filet and placed precisely on an appropriate serving plate. Freshly grated horseradish, pickled ginger and a small pile of smoked salt garnish each dish. Individual cruets of soy sauce are offered. We are instructed to either sprinkle a few grains of salt on each piece of fish, or dip it in the soy sauce. Our choice.
The procession of fish followed a specific logic, from mild to more assertive. I do not like Mackerel, raw or cooked. However, Ichimura-san's Mackerel was unlike any I have ever tasted. Anchovies? You have never had fresh White Anchovies like these. Of course the Toro was amazing, but I swoon over Uni--the smell of the ocean in your mouth. When the sushi was offered, I knew the meal was drawing to a close--perfect pillows of sushi rice, horseradish if Ichimura-san thought it appropriate. Not a piece of toasted nori in sight. But wait, Ichimura-san asked each of the diners if there was a piece of fish one would like to have again. My partner had the Toro, I could not resist more Uni. We ended the meal with a warm Red Bean soup, a perfect foil for all that rich fish.
There are only 9 seats at the sushi bar for a meal that lasts almost 2 hours. Ichimura-san makes you realize that each bite is worth the wait.
Edo-Mae Sushi, Omakase menu only.
Master Eiji Ichimura personally serves you a fantastic, leisurely, dinner composed almost entirely of sashimi which has been gently aged. At the beginning of the meal he will ask if you have any allergies or preferences. Leave the choice up to Ichimura-san. and be prepared for a real experience. Each piece of fish is expertly carved from a filet and placed precisely on an appropriate serving plate. Freshly grated horseradish, pickled ginger and a small pile of smoked salt garnish each dish. Individual cruets of soy sauce are offered. We are instructed to either sprinkle a few grains of salt on each piece of fish, or dip it in the soy sauce. Our choice.
The procession of fish followed a specific logic, from mild to more assertive. I do not like Mackerel, raw or cooked. However, Ichimura-san's Mackerel was unlike any I have ever tasted. Anchovies? You have never had fresh White Anchovies like these. Of course the Toro was amazing, but I swoon over Uni--the smell of the ocean in your mouth. When the sushi was offered, I knew the meal was drawing to a close--perfect pillows of sushi rice, horseradish if Ichimura-san thought it appropriate. Not a piece of toasted nori in sight. But wait, Ichimura-san asked each of the diners if there was a piece of fish one would like to have again. My partner had the Toro, I could not resist more Uni. We ended the meal with a warm Red Bean soup, a perfect foil for all that rich fish.
There are only 9 seats at the sushi bar for a meal that lasts almost 2 hours. Ichimura-san makes you realize that each bite is worth the wait.
A Second Chance for Keste
Keste e Vino, 271 Bleecker Street, NYC 1/12/13
Insalata Rustica: "Spring Mix" of greens, Prosciutto di Parma, marinated Artichokes, Gaeta Olives, Lemon Juice and Extra Virgin Olive Oil.
Pizza Speciale:
Noci e Porcini: Cream of Walnut, Porcini, Pecorino Romano, Basil and Olive Oil.
First visit to much heralded Keste was in September 2012 for lunch. Crust was undercooked and mediocre, and generally indifferent. The boss stopped in to speak with his manager, but obviously did not taste what was coming out of the oven. I could not understand the big fuss.
Second visit at dinner time on January 12, 2013 was altogether different. The Insalata Rustica was perfectly dressed, a well balanced blend of lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil. The Noci e Porcini pizza was delicious. It was generously sprinkled with porcini. The pecorino romano was in perfect proportion to the porcini. The crust was excellent, thin, crisp, but not a cracker. The crust was tasty but did not dominate or overwhelm the toppings. Experiment, go beyond the traditional Margherita. You will not be disappointed. I can hardly wait to return.
Insalata Rustica: "Spring Mix" of greens, Prosciutto di Parma, marinated Artichokes, Gaeta Olives, Lemon Juice and Extra Virgin Olive Oil.
Pizza Speciale:
Noci e Porcini: Cream of Walnut, Porcini, Pecorino Romano, Basil and Olive Oil.
First visit to much heralded Keste was in September 2012 for lunch. Crust was undercooked and mediocre, and generally indifferent. The boss stopped in to speak with his manager, but obviously did not taste what was coming out of the oven. I could not understand the big fuss.
Second visit at dinner time on January 12, 2013 was altogether different. The Insalata Rustica was perfectly dressed, a well balanced blend of lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil. The Noci e Porcini pizza was delicious. It was generously sprinkled with porcini. The pecorino romano was in perfect proportion to the porcini. The crust was excellent, thin, crisp, but not a cracker. The crust was tasty but did not dominate or overwhelm the toppings. Experiment, go beyond the traditional Margherita. You will not be disappointed. I can hardly wait to return.
Butter, 415 Lafayette Street, NYC
Butter at 415 Lafayette Street, NYC 1/11/13. Chef: Alexandra Guarnaschelli
Bread basket: slices of Country Bread and warm Bacon Scones served with two kinds of soft butter, one with fresh Herbs.
Amuse bouche: Smoked Salmon spread with grilled/fried (?) toast. [Toast a little greasy.]
Appetizer: Marinated Domestic Burrata with warm Garlic Toast, grilled Radiccio and aged Balsamic. (A serving large enough to be shared.) [Burrata was creamy and perfectly complemented by the radiccio and balsamic vinegar. Is aged balsamic always so sweet?]
Entrees:
Rack of Lamb with roasted Winter Vegetables, and a Lamb stuffed Raviolo atop Sage and Basil Pesto. [Cooked as ordered, two very meaty, thick, frenched lamp chops.]
Thick slices of Duck Breast with Cranberry Jam and braised Escarole. [Cranberry jam a little too sweet to my taste.]
Dessert:
Chef's Birthday Cake, a generous slice of Vanilla cake with a thin Chocolate Filling and Icing, drizzled with a Salted Caramel Glaze. [Dense textured cake, a result of the recipe or refrigeration? Salted caramel glaze made it special.]
Thankfully, only one appetizer special (butternut squash soup), and one entree special (pan seared filet of red snapper), instead of the laundry list of specials that some restaurants burden the diner and the waiter with. A tasting menu is available, but not all waiters remember to mention it. Reservations can be made through Savored.com, a variable pricing service, which enables you to eat at many places for a discount, if your meal times are flexible. 7 p.m. on a Friday night does not seem like an inconvenient time to eat for a 20% discount on both food and drink.
Bread basket: slices of Country Bread and warm Bacon Scones served with two kinds of soft butter, one with fresh Herbs.
Amuse bouche: Smoked Salmon spread with grilled/fried (?) toast. [Toast a little greasy.]
Appetizer: Marinated Domestic Burrata with warm Garlic Toast, grilled Radiccio and aged Balsamic. (A serving large enough to be shared.) [Burrata was creamy and perfectly complemented by the radiccio and balsamic vinegar. Is aged balsamic always so sweet?]
Entrees:
Rack of Lamb with roasted Winter Vegetables, and a Lamb stuffed Raviolo atop Sage and Basil Pesto. [Cooked as ordered, two very meaty, thick, frenched lamp chops.]
Thick slices of Duck Breast with Cranberry Jam and braised Escarole. [Cranberry jam a little too sweet to my taste.]
Dessert:
Chef's Birthday Cake, a generous slice of Vanilla cake with a thin Chocolate Filling and Icing, drizzled with a Salted Caramel Glaze. [Dense textured cake, a result of the recipe or refrigeration? Salted caramel glaze made it special.]
Thankfully, only one appetizer special (butternut squash soup), and one entree special (pan seared filet of red snapper), instead of the laundry list of specials that some restaurants burden the diner and the waiter with. A tasting menu is available, but not all waiters remember to mention it. Reservations can be made through Savored.com, a variable pricing service, which enables you to eat at many places for a discount, if your meal times are flexible. 7 p.m. on a Friday night does not seem like an inconvenient time to eat for a 20% discount on both food and drink.
Monday, July 18, 2011
Marlow & Sons, worth a trip to Brooklyn
Monday at noon. Marlow & Sons is a lovely spot for a meal. Walk through the shop in the front to the dining area, and you feel as if you have left the city. This is a charming, sweet, calm, little restaurant serving well crafted food.
The market salad is a generous plate of assorted, crisp greens, ever so slightly under-cooked hard boiled egg quarters, red onions, toasted bread crumbs served with a dressing that changes daily. The salad is lightly dressed, unlike salads served in so many places, both high and low, where the greens are drowning.
Today's house made ham (actually from Marlow & Daughters' butcher shop down the street) and cheese sandwich has sliced summer squash inside and is dressed with a grainy mustard. This toasted sandwich is served on fabulous dark bread studded with sunflower seeds. It also comes with fresh, crisp salad greens, lightly dressed.
The Italiano sandwich was packed with Italian meats--prosciutto, salami, mortadella, presumably all from Marlow & Daughters--and cheeses. It was served on a fresh, crusty roll that was not a baguette, but certainly not your average hero roll either. Again, a bit of salad greens rounded out your plate.
The market salad is a generous plate of assorted, crisp greens, ever so slightly under-cooked hard boiled egg quarters, red onions, toasted bread crumbs served with a dressing that changes daily. The salad is lightly dressed, unlike salads served in so many places, both high and low, where the greens are drowning.
Today's house made ham (actually from Marlow & Daughters' butcher shop down the street) and cheese sandwich has sliced summer squash inside and is dressed with a grainy mustard. This toasted sandwich is served on fabulous dark bread studded with sunflower seeds. It also comes with fresh, crisp salad greens, lightly dressed.
The Italiano sandwich was packed with Italian meats--prosciutto, salami, mortadella, presumably all from Marlow & Daughters--and cheeses. It was served on a fresh, crusty roll that was not a baguette, but certainly not your average hero roll either. Again, a bit of salad greens rounded out your plate.
Sunday, July 10, 2011
LIC Treasure: Le Tournesol
Why do you have to travel to LIC to dine at a "neighborhood" French restaurant?
My esteemed French teacher, Fanny, lived in Queens, and highly recommended Le Tournesol, while we sat in its sister establishment, simply called "Wine Bar."
Le Tournesol is a wonderful neighborhood French restaurant where the menu is reminiscent of a type of French restaurant that you can find all over France, and that you used to be able to find in Manhattan. Appetizers range from French Onion soup to Frisée Aux Lardons with Poached Egg, to house made Terrine de Fois Gras. This is the type of place where Celeri Remoulade might accompany an entree. The Steak Frites is a hanger steak served either "au poivre" or "a la Béarnaise." Boundaries are not being pushed. Simple and fresh ingredients are being lovingly prepared in the "French" way.
We started with two specials, the Crabmeat Salad with Avocados and Tomatoes, and the Seared Scallops with Grapes and Beet Sauce. For entrees, we enjoyed the Truite Amandine which was seared in butter; and the Saturday night special, a Duck Ballotine. A whole duck breast is boned, stuffed with chicken liver and swiss chard, roasted and a generous slice is served with orange sauce, baby turnips and Pommes Anna. For dessert we had a slice of Bread Pudding with raisins sitting in Crème Anglaise; and Iles Flottants, a delicious slice of soft meringue "floating" in a pool of that delicious Crème Anglaise. (I have not seen Iles Flottants on a French restaurant menu, in the city, in ages, not with all the experimental and sometimes complicated desserts that dominate so many dessert menus.)
The waitstaff of 4 is quite attentive with a total of 48 guests now that outdoor tables are available. This wonderful neighborhood restaurant is good enough to make you want to move to LIC., and to become a "regular."
My esteemed French teacher, Fanny, lived in Queens, and highly recommended Le Tournesol, while we sat in its sister establishment, simply called "Wine Bar."
Le Tournesol is a wonderful neighborhood French restaurant where the menu is reminiscent of a type of French restaurant that you can find all over France, and that you used to be able to find in Manhattan. Appetizers range from French Onion soup to Frisée Aux Lardons with Poached Egg, to house made Terrine de Fois Gras. This is the type of place where Celeri Remoulade might accompany an entree. The Steak Frites is a hanger steak served either "au poivre" or "a la Béarnaise." Boundaries are not being pushed. Simple and fresh ingredients are being lovingly prepared in the "French" way.
We started with two specials, the Crabmeat Salad with Avocados and Tomatoes, and the Seared Scallops with Grapes and Beet Sauce. For entrees, we enjoyed the Truite Amandine which was seared in butter; and the Saturday night special, a Duck Ballotine. A whole duck breast is boned, stuffed with chicken liver and swiss chard, roasted and a generous slice is served with orange sauce, baby turnips and Pommes Anna. For dessert we had a slice of Bread Pudding with raisins sitting in Crème Anglaise; and Iles Flottants, a delicious slice of soft meringue "floating" in a pool of that delicious Crème Anglaise. (I have not seen Iles Flottants on a French restaurant menu, in the city, in ages, not with all the experimental and sometimes complicated desserts that dominate so many dessert menus.)
The waitstaff of 4 is quite attentive with a total of 48 guests now that outdoor tables are available. This wonderful neighborhood restaurant is good enough to make you want to move to LIC., and to become a "regular."
Thursday, July 7, 2011
Snack Taverna
This is a wonderful little Greek restaurant in the Village. It is warm and inviting. The food is delicious and imaginative, and prepared with care. The staff is efficient and friendly without overdoing it.
The Saganaki (pan seared Kefalotyri Cheese) is a "Small Dish", and a wonderful way to start a meal. It was a perfect complement to the Greek Sauvignon Blanc. The Saganaki is served with lemon and, not too spicy, "spicy tomato relish." The crunchiness of the cheese was a treat.
The Octopus with Gigante Beans and Garlic "Meze" would have been bland, if not for the unexpected sprigs of cilantro.
The small Greek Salad was a lightly dressed bowl of fresh tomatoes, red onions, cucumbers, kalamata olives and a generous slab of barrel aged Greek feta cheese, sprinkled with a little fresh thyme.
The small Roasted Red Beet and Butter Bean Salad was served on a bed of watercress, with toasted almonds, and topped with a dollop of garlicky Skordalia made with Yukon Gold potatoes, peasant bread and garlic.
Snack Taverna's "small" salads are really quite generous in size. The "large" salads came in serving bowls. I cannot imagine being able to eat a "large" salad by myself, especially after having at least one Meze and one "Small Plate" beforehand. As it was, we only had room for dessert. And what tasty desserts they were.
A generous serving of Greek yoghurt with thyme honey sat on a round of walnut cake in a pool of fresh blueberry crumble (?). A Greek goat's milk yoghurt custard had a surprising, but delicious texture, and was stopped by sliced, toasted almonds and accompanied by figs. Not a morsel was left.
The Saganaki (pan seared Kefalotyri Cheese) is a "Small Dish", and a wonderful way to start a meal. It was a perfect complement to the Greek Sauvignon Blanc. The Saganaki is served with lemon and, not too spicy, "spicy tomato relish." The crunchiness of the cheese was a treat.
The Octopus with Gigante Beans and Garlic "Meze" would have been bland, if not for the unexpected sprigs of cilantro.
The small Greek Salad was a lightly dressed bowl of fresh tomatoes, red onions, cucumbers, kalamata olives and a generous slab of barrel aged Greek feta cheese, sprinkled with a little fresh thyme.
The small Roasted Red Beet and Butter Bean Salad was served on a bed of watercress, with toasted almonds, and topped with a dollop of garlicky Skordalia made with Yukon Gold potatoes, peasant bread and garlic.
Snack Taverna's "small" salads are really quite generous in size. The "large" salads came in serving bowls. I cannot imagine being able to eat a "large" salad by myself, especially after having at least one Meze and one "Small Plate" beforehand. As it was, we only had room for dessert. And what tasty desserts they were.
A generous serving of Greek yoghurt with thyme honey sat on a round of walnut cake in a pool of fresh blueberry crumble (?). A Greek goat's milk yoghurt custard had a surprising, but delicious texture, and was stopped by sliced, toasted almonds and accompanied by figs. Not a morsel was left.
A Near Miss
Today I witnessed an almost tragedy.
Mother with three children. Two in a double stroller, one child in front of the other. The third child is walking alongside the stroller.
Crossing an intersection where 3 lanes of traffic have stopped for a red light.
Flashing lights and a blaring siren from a police car approaching the intersection in the parking lane.
Mother stops just as the police car reaches the crosswalk.
The child sitting in the front seat of the stroller hops out, and misses being hit by the police car by a foot.
NO CHILD RIDING IN A STROLLER IS MATURE ENOUGH TO DECIDE WHETHER HE/SHE SHOULD BE STRAPPED IN.
Mother with three children. Two in a double stroller, one child in front of the other. The third child is walking alongside the stroller.
Crossing an intersection where 3 lanes of traffic have stopped for a red light.
Flashing lights and a blaring siren from a police car approaching the intersection in the parking lane.
Mother stops just as the police car reaches the crosswalk.
The child sitting in the front seat of the stroller hops out, and misses being hit by the police car by a foot.
NO CHILD RIDING IN A STROLLER IS MATURE ENOUGH TO DECIDE WHETHER HE/SHE SHOULD BE STRAPPED IN.
Saturday, July 2, 2011
Summer in the City, Part II, Walking "Around" Manhattan
Today, we started a journey to circumnavigate the island of Manhattan, staying along the water as much as possible. The focus was not the skyline, but what was going on along the waterfront itself.
We started at the Staten Island Ferry Terminal and headed East along the water. We passed the ferry terminal to Governor's Island, and saw three helicopters land on the East River Heliport at Pier 6.
At Old Slip and South Street, we spotted the NYC Police Museum, who even knew it was there?
At the foot of Wall Street, a huge line snaked under the FDR. People were waiting to board the Seastreak for the 30 minute ride to the beaches of Sandy Hook, NJ. Judging by the length of the line, and hearing the moans when the crowd was told you had to buy tickets to board the ship, a mid-week trip to Sandy Hook is best. Sharing Pier 11 with the Seastreak are the Water Taxis to Brooklyn. The crowds kept us from discovering Cheng's installation at the pier's tip. Another time.
The South Street Seaport Museum Ships are found at Piers 15, 16 and 17. The former Rouse retail complex at Pier Pavilion 17 is anchored on the ground floor by Johnny Rockets, and on the second floor by Pizzeria Uno. Haven't a clue or a care about what retail stores can be found inside. This is tourist heaven with street vendors selling the latest "hot" sunglasses, handbags and other assorted knickknacks.
On South Street I spotted several loading bays with signs for some farmers' market stallworths--Migliori's farm, the pickle people, Granddaisy's Bakery, etc. However, I was not curious enough to interrupt my journey North to stop and find out if there is indeed a covered farmers' market in one of the old fishmongers' buildings. Maybe another time.
Strolling along under the FDR, dodging bike riders and joggers, I tried to stay as close to the water as possible. However, there is construction and maintenance going on, but it does not keep you away from the foot of the Brooklyn Bridge.
As always, the Brooklyn Bridge was compelling, even from underneath, on the Manhattan side. What is it about this bridge that just speaks to me? It seems both delicate and solid at the same time. The details are a delight to behold, whether observing them from below, or while crossing it on foot.
Continuing our walk North, we discovered the Two Bridges neighborhood. A little known waterfront neighborhood between the Brooklyn Bridge and the Manhattan Bridge. It shares the underside of the FDR with a curious collection of old cars--Thunderbirds, Buicks, Chevy's, all of the 1960's vintage. Why are they there? Who is guarding them? Why isn't someone taking better care of them?
We passed fisherfolk and a few people doing Tai Chi. Not unexpected since Chinatown is due West of this neighborhood. Close to the foot of the Manhattan Bridge was a baseball field, with restrooms and the name "Verizon Fields." Does this belong to Verizon, to the City; is it part of a public school? No matter, it was empty. Not a soul using it on such a glorious day.
If you are alert, you will catch a glimpse of McKim, Mead & White's Gouverneur Hospital, an old City hospital with tiers of curved verandas.
Between the Manhattan Bridge and Williamsburg Bridge, you are reminded that this is both a working waterfront and a recreational area. After you past the Sanitation Department's complex, you come upon the East River Park Amphitheater and a derelict City owned Environmental Education Center. There are tennis courts, softball diamonds, and baseball fields with lights sharing space with soccer pitches.
Part 1 of this journey ended at East Houston/FDR interchange, where we dodged two lanes of traffic to leave the waterfront.
We started at the Staten Island Ferry Terminal and headed East along the water. We passed the ferry terminal to Governor's Island, and saw three helicopters land on the East River Heliport at Pier 6.
At Old Slip and South Street, we spotted the NYC Police Museum, who even knew it was there?
At the foot of Wall Street, a huge line snaked under the FDR. People were waiting to board the Seastreak for the 30 minute ride to the beaches of Sandy Hook, NJ. Judging by the length of the line, and hearing the moans when the crowd was told you had to buy tickets to board the ship, a mid-week trip to Sandy Hook is best. Sharing Pier 11 with the Seastreak are the Water Taxis to Brooklyn. The crowds kept us from discovering Cheng's installation at the pier's tip. Another time.
The South Street Seaport Museum Ships are found at Piers 15, 16 and 17. The former Rouse retail complex at Pier Pavilion 17 is anchored on the ground floor by Johnny Rockets, and on the second floor by Pizzeria Uno. Haven't a clue or a care about what retail stores can be found inside. This is tourist heaven with street vendors selling the latest "hot" sunglasses, handbags and other assorted knickknacks.
On South Street I spotted several loading bays with signs for some farmers' market stallworths--Migliori's farm, the pickle people, Granddaisy's Bakery, etc. However, I was not curious enough to interrupt my journey North to stop and find out if there is indeed a covered farmers' market in one of the old fishmongers' buildings. Maybe another time.
Strolling along under the FDR, dodging bike riders and joggers, I tried to stay as close to the water as possible. However, there is construction and maintenance going on, but it does not keep you away from the foot of the Brooklyn Bridge.
As always, the Brooklyn Bridge was compelling, even from underneath, on the Manhattan side. What is it about this bridge that just speaks to me? It seems both delicate and solid at the same time. The details are a delight to behold, whether observing them from below, or while crossing it on foot.
Continuing our walk North, we discovered the Two Bridges neighborhood. A little known waterfront neighborhood between the Brooklyn Bridge and the Manhattan Bridge. It shares the underside of the FDR with a curious collection of old cars--Thunderbirds, Buicks, Chevy's, all of the 1960's vintage. Why are they there? Who is guarding them? Why isn't someone taking better care of them?
We passed fisherfolk and a few people doing Tai Chi. Not unexpected since Chinatown is due West of this neighborhood. Close to the foot of the Manhattan Bridge was a baseball field, with restrooms and the name "Verizon Fields." Does this belong to Verizon, to the City; is it part of a public school? No matter, it was empty. Not a soul using it on such a glorious day.
If you are alert, you will catch a glimpse of McKim, Mead & White's Gouverneur Hospital, an old City hospital with tiers of curved verandas.
Between the Manhattan Bridge and Williamsburg Bridge, you are reminded that this is both a working waterfront and a recreational area. After you past the Sanitation Department's complex, you come upon the East River Park Amphitheater and a derelict City owned Environmental Education Center. There are tennis courts, softball diamonds, and baseball fields with lights sharing space with soccer pitches.
Part 1 of this journey ended at East Houston/FDR interchange, where we dodged two lanes of traffic to leave the waterfront.
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