No Joyous Noise from this Calliope

Calliope, 84 East 4th Street, New York, NY 10003.

Finally had a chance to try this much heralded, relatively new, spot in the East Village.  Perhaps the kitchen is overwhelmed by its success, or perhaps there is too little new-style French bistro cooking in the City so any attempt is lauded.  It was an up and down meal.

The complimentary anchovy toast with radishes is served as two big thick slices of nice crusty bread lightly toasted with a schmeer of anchovy spread, and a side of whole radishes.  It would have been easier to eat, and tastier too, if the toast were smaller and the radishes were sliced and presented on top of each piece of toast.  Eaten at the same time these individual elements were more complementary.

UP:  The Eggs Mayo appetizer does not disappoint.  Three perfectly cooked boiled eggs with ever so slightly runny centers are served whole, sprinkled with fresh chives, and drizzled with a delicious house-made mayo.  The deep orange color of the yolks testified to the eggs' freshness.  A very nice starter.

DOWN:  However, a curious thing happened when we were presented with this starter.  The waiter asked if we wanted the entrees along with the starter, or if we wanted them held since they were ready!?  We requested the entrees be served when we were done with the eggs.  We presumed the waiter did not really mean that our entrees were literally ready and being held.  (The restaurant was only half full, and the expediting should not have been mistimed.)

DOWN:  While the Rabbit with Pappardelle was tasty, the pasta was slightly overcooked.  Fresh pasta is always tricky.  Timing is important.  It is too easy to overcook fresh pasta and have it turn it into paste.

UP:  The Hot and Sour Braised Lamb Neck was well spiced and accompanied by mascarpone agnoletti.  The lamb was served in a braising liquid that was a good balance of hot and sour.

UP:  The Market Vegetable was the ubiquitous Brussels Sprout sauteed and served with Thai chilies.  The server noticed my reticence, and suggested that the chef could go light on the chilies.  The Brussels Sprouts were served crispy with a hint of heat.  Good suggestion.

DOWN:  For dessert the Green Apple and Pear Tart was shared.  The portion came sliced in two with creme fraiche.  Unfortunately, one of the halves was unevenly cooked and burnt looking.  Having baked a number of fruit tarts myself, I would never serve a "guest" such an unsightly looking serving.

UP:  The tea is properly served in a pot and the Americano had crema floating on top which attested to its really being pulled and not poured from a pre-made pot of coffee.

UP:  The service is generally solicitous, and cannot be blamed for what happens in the kitchen.  The restaurant still sends a portion of your check to two local theatre groups--the New York Theatre Workshop and La Mama--when you let them know you are a supporter.

As talented as the chefs are supposed to be, I would not make a special trip to eat here again.  In addition, there are at least two or three too many two tops.  The tables are so close together, you can accidentally put your elbow in a neighbor's plate.  A party of 7 were seated at a table only big enough for 6.