Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Summer in the City, Part I, Random Thoughts

Riverside Park--a weekly picnic dinner with friends by the water.  A constantly changing configuration of people.  Food, drink and conversation.  Cooling breezes.  Sunset over the Hudson.  Chilling out after a long, busy day.

Strolling along the riverfront, past the outdoor yoga class; dodging the bicycles and joggers.  Passing solitary readers, and pairs sharing private moments of whispered conversations.  Weaving through the crowd at the Boat Basin Cafe.  Riverside Park is alive with people and art.  A new waterside sculpture program, stretching from West 72nd Street to West 65th (?). 

Is there no one willing to pay the price to turn on all the lights on the GW bridge, or will we have to be satisfied with a single, horizontal string of lights guiding us northward? 

Monday, June 27, 2011

Birreria, a rare Batali-Bastianich stumble?

A beautiful warm, sunny Saturday afternoon.  A drink in the great Outdoors seemed appealing. A short elevator ride from Eataly brings you to the roof and Birreria, a beer garden with an extensive list of draft beers, bottled beers, and, coming soon, cask beers.  While this is a place to drink, there is a relatively short bar.  There are many tables, at which you are definitely meant to eat.  Yet, we were underwhelmed by the food.  Maybe it was just a little too early and too hot for pork shoulder, sausages, and other grilled foods. Find a table under an umbrella, or you will need SPF 75 sunblock.  Although it is on the 14th floor, facing Madison Square Park, there is not much of a view.  

The beers sampled were okay.  Would I travel downtown or uptown to drink them, I don't think so.  The DFH Festina Peche, described as a Berliner Weisse with Peaches, could not compare to the Berliner Weisse served at Luchow's or any other decent German restaurant.  The Blue Point Summer Ale must be for people who do not like the taste of beer.  However, it was aptly described as a "refresher."  Perhaps someone who loves Guinness really shouldn't comment on ales of any type?

Suggestion--more shade and lighter food during the daylight hours.

Le Isole--the crossroads of Italy

Is it any wonder that the food of the islands of Italy is so complex?  These islands have withstood "visits" from the Greeks, the Romans, the Byantines, the Saracens, and now boat loads of tourists from around the world.

First set the tovaglia with bowls of the Mandranova family's 100% Giarraffa olive oil.  This olive oil is slightly bitter, but light, with an assertive peppery taste.  We have been told it was cultivated for the "hyper-niche market of olive oil enthusiasts."  Whew!

To whet our appetites, we were served Arancini con Ragu, a delicious introduction to Sicilian food, and a wonderful accompaniment to wine.  These were crisp, golden brown, golf ball sized spheres of arborio rice that were flavored with saffron, pecorino, eggs and stuffed with a little veal, beef and sausage ragu.  Before being fried in olive oil, the arancini were dusted with flour, dipped in egg whites and rolled in bread crumbs. 

Duca di Castelmonte's Dinari de Duca Grillo IGT 2009 from Sicily was slightly chilled and perfect with the arancini, preparing us for the meal to come.

For the Primi course, we were served Fregula con Mais, a fantastic pasta found in every Sardinian kitchen.  This semolina pasta, originally from North Africa, has a slightly nutty, wheaty flavor, and was served with fresh corn kernals, heirloom cherry tomato halves, sliced scallions and a Lemon Vinaigrette.  A perfect summer pasta, especially when the corn has just been picked.

Pesce Spada a la Griglo was served on top of Caponata di Melanzane from a jar.  While the caponata was tasty, I could not help thinking how much better it would have been if it had been made freshly.  Mario Batali's recipe for caponata was distributed and would have been better than what we had from a jar. This is not to say that the Caponata was not tasty.  It was tasty.

A winey Cannonau Riserva 2007 from Sella & Msca in Sardegna was the perfect foil for the Caponata, yet it did not drown out the delicate flavor of the grilled swordfish dressed with more of that wonderful Sicilian olive oil.

A journey well spent.

Chocolate Lovers' Alert

I have justed discovered the Domori brand of chocolate.  I can hardily recommend the "Cacao Teyuna" bar, which is 70% cacao, single origin (Colombia), dark chocolate.  This bar is simiply cacao and cane sugar. 

I have always been a little skeptical about all the wooohooo surrounding "artisanal Chocolate."  However, now that I have tasted a chocolate considered artisanal, I can see why there is such a fuss.  It is not only the rich, deep, dark taste that has won me over, but also the texture of the chocolate.  This bar begged for a good cup of espresso.

Domori is an Italian brand which can be found, where else, at Eataly, one of my favorite haunts.

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Theatre is Still Alive and Breathing in the Big City

Last night, the American Renaissance Theater Company's Spring Reading Series--2011 presented six readings--five one act plays, and the first act of a full-length work.  The performances were, on the whole, pretty polished for staged readings, and expertly directed.  The plays themselves were of varied subject matter, and thought provoking, while being entertaining.  Not a polemic among them.

A well written one act play is like a short story, a single gem polished to perfection.

In spite of the difficulty, or maybe because of it, creative people will continue to find their way to New York for artistic support, sustenance, and success, as measured by individual standards.  Bravo to every actor, writer, director, producer, lighting designer, choreographer, dancer, musician, etc. who helps keep the city's heart beating.

Saturday, June 18, 2011

L'Italia Meridionale--The South

L'Italia Meridionale consists of Abruzzo, Molise, Campania, Puglia, Basilicata e Calabria.  With Sicily this region was called, "al Regno delle Due Sicilie," the kingdom of the two Sicilys. 

Today's journey started with a slightly warm pyramid of Mozzarella di Bufalo di Campania, sitting in a pool of Olive Oil from Calabria, seasoned with salt and pepper.  The chewy cheese was a revelation, so much better tasting than the cow's milk mozzarella produced in the U.S.

Orecchiette Alle Cime di Rapa was the pasta course.  This former "peasant's dish" could not have been more satisfying.  The Broccoli Rabe is cut into small pieces, blanched, and tossed with the cooked Orecchiette in a delightful sauce of olive oil, garlic, finely chopped anchovies, and a minced, hot chili pepper.  The finished pasta is topped with toasted breadcrumbs and more olive oil.  The Feudi di San Gregorio, Greco di Tufo 2009 from Campania was delicious.

Lidia's Pesce Spada all'Uso di Bagnara rounded off our meal.  Swordfish steaks were covered with olive oil, lemon slices, and garlic; and then steamed in a dish, placed on a rack inside a roasting pan.  Once out of the oven, the swordfish was showered with crumbled dried oregano and sprinkled with fresh parsley; and served on a warm Caponata.  Much to our surprise a red wine from Puglia was served.  The Castello Monaci Liante, Salice Salentino 2009 played perfectly with the hearty caponata.  Neither the red wine, nor the caponata overwhelmed the swordfish.  What a revelation--red wine with fish!

From "Altitalia" to "Centritalia," heavy red sauces are not to be found.

A food trip to the central region of Italy included Toscana, Umbria, Marche e Lazio.  We started with two salumi from the central region--Mortadella with pistachios and Salame Toscano, a sausage with black pepper and cubes of fat; and two salumi from the North--a slice of Coppa, a cured meat from the pork shoulder, and the ever popular Prosciutto di Parma.  Complementing these meats were two sheep's milk cheeses, the firm Sfizo; and Cacio di Roma, a semi-firm cheese; a puddle of Amaretto-flavored Honey and a drizzle of La Mozza Olive Oil.

The pasta course was the prototypical Roman dish, "Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe."  It could not have been tastier or more simple to prepare, since it was just a pound of freshly cooked dried Spaghetti tossed with at least a cup of grated Pecorino Romano and a two tablespoons of freshly ground Black Pepper.  Served with a wonderful Fontana Candida, a Frascati Superiore 2009 from Lazio.

To complete this meal a simply roasted squab was served with a delicious bean stew, Fagioli all'Uccelletto--cannellini beans, olive oil, canned whole tomatoes, garlic, sage, rosemary, onion, and celery.  A hearty red, La Mozza, Morellino di Scansano "I Perazzi," 2008 was enjoyed.