Smithfield. 215 West 28th Street (7th & 8th Avenues).
This tavern has surpassed Nevada Smith's as the go-to-venue for football. Every league gets it due from the EPL to La Ligue to Serie A to the Bundesliga, the Eredivisie, etc. Not only are there three floors of screens, but the food is reasonably priced and good to boot. The wait staff is great, welcoming even at 7:30 a.m.! There are plenty of clean, well-stocked restrooms.
Breakfast & Beer menu is sure to please the fans who come for the early morning matches. The Brekky Sanger is a hardy way to start the morning while watching your team. It's a filling sandwich of organic fried eggs and Irish pork sausage on Pullman bread. For something lighter, closer to lunchtime, try the Chopped Salad, freshly made and properly dressed with bits of pine nuts, dates, crisp shredded lettuce and various other tidbits. All your favorite beers are available from the early morning dato last call.
Saturday, March 30, 2013
Not Your Neighborhood Italian Market
Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria. 53 Great Jones Street (Bowery & Lafayette), NYC.
Roast Porchetta Panino. Not for those watching their cholesterol. This sandwich is a generous portion of Porchetta served on a crispy, crusty house-made roll. The portion was obviously sliced from a rolled pork roast which would make natives of Lazio proud. The slice included the crunchy skin and a rich layer of pork fat surrounding the moist pork and its Salsa Verde. Peppery Baby Arugula in the sandwich was a nice counterpoint to all that fat! A small side dish included Pickled Cauliflower, a Baby Carrot and a small Onion. These pickled vegetables were also a nice contrast to the rich pork.
A generous slice of Olive Oil Cake was a satisfying dessert with its hint of lemon. Black and Green teas are served by the pot; and a full menu of espresso drinks are available.
Sit at the 6-seat counter in the Alimentari. The wait-staff could not have been nicer, or more professional. They graciously answered any and all questions--about the food, the wine, the fancy beer and wine pulls, etc. Water glasses are routinely filled, even though the water carafe sits in front of you. Every effort is successfully made to make a diner feel welcomed.
Roast Porchetta Panino. Not for those watching their cholesterol. This sandwich is a generous portion of Porchetta served on a crispy, crusty house-made roll. The portion was obviously sliced from a rolled pork roast which would make natives of Lazio proud. The slice included the crunchy skin and a rich layer of pork fat surrounding the moist pork and its Salsa Verde. Peppery Baby Arugula in the sandwich was a nice counterpoint to all that fat! A small side dish included Pickled Cauliflower, a Baby Carrot and a small Onion. These pickled vegetables were also a nice contrast to the rich pork.
A generous slice of Olive Oil Cake was a satisfying dessert with its hint of lemon. Black and Green teas are served by the pot; and a full menu of espresso drinks are available.
Sit at the 6-seat counter in the Alimentari. The wait-staff could not have been nicer, or more professional. They graciously answered any and all questions--about the food, the wine, the fancy beer and wine pulls, etc. Water glasses are routinely filled, even though the water carafe sits in front of you. Every effort is successfully made to make a diner feel welcomed.
Sunday, March 10, 2013
No Joyous Noise from this Calliope
Calliope, 84 East 4th Street, New York, NY 10003.
Finally had a chance to try this much heralded, relatively new, spot in the East Village. Perhaps the kitchen is overwhelmed by its success, or perhaps there is too little new-style French bistro cooking in the City so any attempt is lauded. It was an up and down meal.
The complimentary anchovy toast with radishes is served as two big thick slices of nice crusty bread lightly toasted with a schmeer of anchovy spread, and a side of whole radishes. It would have been easier to eat, and tastier too, if the toast were smaller and the radishes were sliced and presented on top of each piece of toast. Eaten at the same time these individual elements were more complementary.
UP: The Eggs Mayo appetizer does not disappoint. Three perfectly cooked boiled eggs with ever so slightly runny centers are served whole, sprinkled with fresh chives, and drizzled with a delicious house-made mayo. The deep orange color of the yolks testified to the eggs' freshness. A very nice starter.
DOWN: However, a curious thing happened when we were presented with this starter. The waiter asked if we wanted the entrees along with the starter, or if we wanted them held since they were ready!? We requested the entrees be served when we were done with the eggs. We presumed the waiter did not really mean that our entrees were literally ready and being held. (The restaurant was only half full, and the expediting should not have been mistimed.)
DOWN: While the Rabbit with Pappardelle was tasty, the pasta was slightly overcooked. Fresh pasta is always tricky. Timing is important. It is too easy to overcook fresh pasta and have it turn it into paste.
UP: The Hot and Sour Braised Lamb Neck was well spiced and accompanied by mascarpone agnoletti. The lamb was served in a braising liquid that was a good balance of hot and sour.
UP: The Market Vegetable was the ubiquitous Brussels Sprout sauteed and served with Thai chilies. The server noticed my reticence, and suggested that the chef could go light on the chilies. The Brussels Sprouts were served crispy with a hint of heat. Good suggestion.
DOWN: For dessert the Green Apple and Pear Tart was shared. The portion came sliced in two with creme fraiche. Unfortunately, one of the halves was unevenly cooked and burnt looking. Having baked a number of fruit tarts myself, I would never serve a "guest" such an unsightly looking serving.
UP: The tea is properly served in a pot and the Americano had crema floating on top which attested to its really being pulled and not poured from a pre-made pot of coffee.
UP: The service is generally solicitous, and cannot be blamed for what happens in the kitchen. The restaurant still sends a portion of your check to two local theatre groups--the New York Theatre Workshop and La Mama--when you let them know you are a supporter.
As talented as the chefs are supposed to be, I would not make a special trip to eat here again. In addition, there are at least two or three too many two tops. The tables are so close together, you can accidentally put your elbow in a neighbor's plate. A party of 7 were seated at a table only big enough for 6.
Finally had a chance to try this much heralded, relatively new, spot in the East Village. Perhaps the kitchen is overwhelmed by its success, or perhaps there is too little new-style French bistro cooking in the City so any attempt is lauded. It was an up and down meal.
The complimentary anchovy toast with radishes is served as two big thick slices of nice crusty bread lightly toasted with a schmeer of anchovy spread, and a side of whole radishes. It would have been easier to eat, and tastier too, if the toast were smaller and the radishes were sliced and presented on top of each piece of toast. Eaten at the same time these individual elements were more complementary.
UP: The Eggs Mayo appetizer does not disappoint. Three perfectly cooked boiled eggs with ever so slightly runny centers are served whole, sprinkled with fresh chives, and drizzled with a delicious house-made mayo. The deep orange color of the yolks testified to the eggs' freshness. A very nice starter.
DOWN: However, a curious thing happened when we were presented with this starter. The waiter asked if we wanted the entrees along with the starter, or if we wanted them held since they were ready!? We requested the entrees be served when we were done with the eggs. We presumed the waiter did not really mean that our entrees were literally ready and being held. (The restaurant was only half full, and the expediting should not have been mistimed.)
DOWN: While the Rabbit with Pappardelle was tasty, the pasta was slightly overcooked. Fresh pasta is always tricky. Timing is important. It is too easy to overcook fresh pasta and have it turn it into paste.
UP: The Hot and Sour Braised Lamb Neck was well spiced and accompanied by mascarpone agnoletti. The lamb was served in a braising liquid that was a good balance of hot and sour.
UP: The Market Vegetable was the ubiquitous Brussels Sprout sauteed and served with Thai chilies. The server noticed my reticence, and suggested that the chef could go light on the chilies. The Brussels Sprouts were served crispy with a hint of heat. Good suggestion.
DOWN: For dessert the Green Apple and Pear Tart was shared. The portion came sliced in two with creme fraiche. Unfortunately, one of the halves was unevenly cooked and burnt looking. Having baked a number of fruit tarts myself, I would never serve a "guest" such an unsightly looking serving.
UP: The tea is properly served in a pot and the Americano had crema floating on top which attested to its really being pulled and not poured from a pre-made pot of coffee.
UP: The service is generally solicitous, and cannot be blamed for what happens in the kitchen. The restaurant still sends a portion of your check to two local theatre groups--the New York Theatre Workshop and La Mama--when you let them know you are a supporter.
As talented as the chefs are supposed to be, I would not make a special trip to eat here again. In addition, there are at least two or three too many two tops. The tables are so close together, you can accidentally put your elbow in a neighbor's plate. A party of 7 were seated at a table only big enough for 6.
Saturday, February 2, 2013
Antidote for the Winter Blues.
Luke's Lobster. 426 Amsterdam Avenue (82nd/81st Streets). 2/2/13.
Nothing reminds me of summer more than a fresh lobster roll. Thankfully, Luke's Lobster does not close for the winter.
The lobster rolls are generous, the Cape Cod Chips potato-ey, and the Maine Root Ginger Beer tangy. Today's lobster roll was full of claw meat, drizzled with butter and nicely peppered. The New England-style hot dog bun was lightly toasted. A half-sour pickle spear, served on the side, was crunchy, and provided a nice textural contrast. For heat seekers there are squeeze bottles of Red Rooster Sriracha sauce on every countertop.
The "fish shack"decor seems to bring out a relaxed, 'it's summer" attitude, that leads to amiable table sharing at this limited seating spot.
Nothing reminds me of summer more than a fresh lobster roll. Thankfully, Luke's Lobster does not close for the winter.
The lobster rolls are generous, the Cape Cod Chips potato-ey, and the Maine Root Ginger Beer tangy. Today's lobster roll was full of claw meat, drizzled with butter and nicely peppered. The New England-style hot dog bun was lightly toasted. A half-sour pickle spear, served on the side, was crunchy, and provided a nice textural contrast. For heat seekers there are squeeze bottles of Red Rooster Sriracha sauce on every countertop.
The "fish shack"decor seems to bring out a relaxed, 'it's summer" attitude, that leads to amiable table sharing at this limited seating spot.
UES Hospitality
Corrado Bread and Pastry. 1361 Lexington Avenue at 90th Street, NYC. 1/31/13.
While wandering around the UES one evening looking for something sweet to eat, before attending a superb production of "Fiddler on the Roof," but not wanting to go to Starbucks, I stumbled into Corrado Bread and Pastry.
In a city often characterized as cold and rude, and often rightly so, the counter staff at this Upper East Side location are the welcomed exception. On a cold winter night, each customer that crossed the threshold was warmly greeted. Not an auto-pilot greeting, but a "look you in the eye" welcome. When someone takes the time to serve you in a cordial manner, it is hard to be rude and in a rush.
The pecan bar was yummy, full of pecans on a tender base and not overly sweet. With a cup of tea this was a perfect dessert. Be warned there is only a slim counter at the window at which to sit. Most customers took their orders with them--sandwiches, macarons, pastries, cookies, etc.
It was a pleasure to patronize a place that really wants your business, and by its example brings out the best in its customers.
While wandering around the UES one evening looking for something sweet to eat, before attending a superb production of "Fiddler on the Roof," but not wanting to go to Starbucks, I stumbled into Corrado Bread and Pastry.
In a city often characterized as cold and rude, and often rightly so, the counter staff at this Upper East Side location are the welcomed exception. On a cold winter night, each customer that crossed the threshold was warmly greeted. Not an auto-pilot greeting, but a "look you in the eye" welcome. When someone takes the time to serve you in a cordial manner, it is hard to be rude and in a rush.
The pecan bar was yummy, full of pecans on a tender base and not overly sweet. With a cup of tea this was a perfect dessert. Be warned there is only a slim counter at the window at which to sit. Most customers took their orders with them--sandwiches, macarons, pastries, cookies, etc.
It was a pleasure to patronize a place that really wants your business, and by its example brings out the best in its customers.
Burger Bite
Shake Shack, 154 E. 86th Street, NYC. 1/31/13.
Sometimes you just need a burger, and do not want to spend $10+. In spite of its popularity, Shake Shack can still satisfy your hunger for red meat. While fast becoming a chain, the Shake Shack is still not a "chain." The Shack Burger is an Angus beef patty, cooked at the time of order, and served with cheese, lettuce, tomato, and ShackSauce on a potato bun.
The freshness of the ingredients is what makes the difference. The burger patty is fresh, not frozen. The lettuce is green and leafy. The tomato slices are red. The potato bun is fresh.
This is fast food that is not "fast." While waits can be expected, the quality of the product is worth it.
Sometimes you just need a burger, and do not want to spend $10+. In spite of its popularity, Shake Shack can still satisfy your hunger for red meat. While fast becoming a chain, the Shake Shack is still not a "chain." The Shack Burger is an Angus beef patty, cooked at the time of order, and served with cheese, lettuce, tomato, and ShackSauce on a potato bun.
The freshness of the ingredients is what makes the difference. The burger patty is fresh, not frozen. The lettuce is green and leafy. The tomato slices are red. The potato bun is fresh.
This is fast food that is not "fast." While waits can be expected, the quality of the product is worth it.
Friday, January 25, 2013
A Hidden Oasis in the Midst of Crowded Soho
Despana Fine Foods & Tapas Café, 408 Broome Street, NYC 10013. 1/25/13.
When your feet and ears need a break from shopping in Soho, wander over to Despana Fine Foods & Tapas Café on Broome Street. In the back, past the groceries, cheeses, and meats there is a counter from which you can order food. This trip a Cortado Doble and a slice of Tarta de Santiago (flourless, almond tort from Galicia) was all that was required. While the espresso might not have been the most expertly drawn, it was tasty enough; and the tarta was a perfect accompaniment, not too sweet. There are several communal tables with chairs in a cozy room to the left of the food counter. To the right there is a small alcove presided over by the head of a big, black steer mounted securely on the wall, and a small, marble topped table and stools.
The Tapas Café menu includes Tapas, Pintxos, Bocadillos, Tortillas, Salads, Soups and Dessert. I can hardly wait for a return visit to try the cafe menu. The pleasant and helpful staff make the cafe an ideal place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Soho.
When your feet and ears need a break from shopping in Soho, wander over to Despana Fine Foods & Tapas Café on Broome Street. In the back, past the groceries, cheeses, and meats there is a counter from which you can order food. This trip a Cortado Doble and a slice of Tarta de Santiago (flourless, almond tort from Galicia) was all that was required. While the espresso might not have been the most expertly drawn, it was tasty enough; and the tarta was a perfect accompaniment, not too sweet. There are several communal tables with chairs in a cozy room to the left of the food counter. To the right there is a small alcove presided over by the head of a big, black steer mounted securely on the wall, and a small, marble topped table and stools.
The Tapas Café menu includes Tapas, Pintxos, Bocadillos, Tortillas, Salads, Soups and Dessert. I can hardly wait for a return visit to try the cafe menu. The pleasant and helpful staff make the cafe an ideal place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Soho.
Perfect Lunch fro 20 Degree Weather
Shanghai Café Déluxe, 100 Mott Street, NYC 10013. 1/25/13.
What can be more satisfying than hot, freshly "Steamed Tiny Buns with Pork?" These "buns" are more commonly referred to as soup dumplings. No matter what you call them, they were a welcomed lunch on a frigid day. At lunch there is a $4.95 per person minimum. Since the Tiny Buns with Pork are $4.95 for 8, you just have to order more food. We tried the Sticky Rice in Bamboo Leaf ($2.95), which was hot and gooey with chunks of roasted pork with bacon-y tasting edges. Decidedly different from my paw-paw's Cantonese-style sticky rice, but still quite tasty. Shredded Turnip Short Cake ($3.95) was indeed shredded turnip, mildy seasoned, in what the French would call a pâte brisée. Turnips count as veggies, don't they? Eating the Chinese cabbage leaves upon which the tiny buns were steamed also helped make this a well-rounded meal. Total cost $12.90.
What can be more satisfying than hot, freshly "Steamed Tiny Buns with Pork?" These "buns" are more commonly referred to as soup dumplings. No matter what you call them, they were a welcomed lunch on a frigid day. At lunch there is a $4.95 per person minimum. Since the Tiny Buns with Pork are $4.95 for 8, you just have to order more food. We tried the Sticky Rice in Bamboo Leaf ($2.95), which was hot and gooey with chunks of roasted pork with bacon-y tasting edges. Decidedly different from my paw-paw's Cantonese-style sticky rice, but still quite tasty. Shredded Turnip Short Cake ($3.95) was indeed shredded turnip, mildy seasoned, in what the French would call a pâte brisée. Turnips count as veggies, don't they? Eating the Chinese cabbage leaves upon which the tiny buns were steamed also helped make this a well-rounded meal. Total cost $12.90.
Sunday, January 20, 2013
Kefi, Neighborhood Stalwart
Kefi, 505 Columbus Avenue, between W. 84th and W. 85th, NYC, 1/18/13
Moderately priced Greek restaurant that never disappoints. A neighborhood favorite.
The grilled octopus, slightly smokey and tender, and served with a tasty bean salad of chick peas, black-eye peas and red peppers is a meze that never disappoints. Tender meatballs with roasted garlic and a melange of olives will appeal to the meat lover in the group.
A generous lamb shank was cooked to "falling off the bone" perfection and served with orzo. The grilled hanger steak was cooked exactly as ordered, and was accompanied by manouri (a Greek cheese) and seasonal brussel spouts. Both entrees were generous enough to require doggy bags, and made a wonderful lunch the next day. The chicken souvlaki sandwich was served in fresh pita bread and plated with a generous portion of Greek salad and homemade chips.
The galaktobouriko with orange spoon fruit is the dessert to try-sweet, but not too sweet, with a custardlike consistency. The lemon sorbet was suitably tart. The walnut cake is usually moist, but this time was a little dry. The walnut ice cream made it edible.
Kefi is a restaurant that warmly welcomes everyone whether you are ordering a three course meal or just having one of their delicious sandwiches. In spite of the moderate prices, there is never any pressure to order more than you want to eat. An UWS asset.
Moderately priced Greek restaurant that never disappoints. A neighborhood favorite.
The grilled octopus, slightly smokey and tender, and served with a tasty bean salad of chick peas, black-eye peas and red peppers is a meze that never disappoints. Tender meatballs with roasted garlic and a melange of olives will appeal to the meat lover in the group.
A generous lamb shank was cooked to "falling off the bone" perfection and served with orzo. The grilled hanger steak was cooked exactly as ordered, and was accompanied by manouri (a Greek cheese) and seasonal brussel spouts. Both entrees were generous enough to require doggy bags, and made a wonderful lunch the next day. The chicken souvlaki sandwich was served in fresh pita bread and plated with a generous portion of Greek salad and homemade chips.
The galaktobouriko with orange spoon fruit is the dessert to try-sweet, but not too sweet, with a custardlike consistency. The lemon sorbet was suitably tart. The walnut cake is usually moist, but this time was a little dry. The walnut ice cream made it edible.
Kefi is a restaurant that warmly welcomes everyone whether you are ordering a three course meal or just having one of their delicious sandwiches. In spite of the moderate prices, there is never any pressure to order more than you want to eat. An UWS asset.
Sunday, January 13, 2013
Cocina Economica, Welcomed Addition to the UWS
Cocina Economica, 252 Amsterdam Avenue, NYC 1/05/13
Ensalada de Nopalitos (cactus salad): String beans, cilantro, breakfast raddish, jicama, toasted almonds, serrano pepper lime vinaigrette.
Cazuelas (casseroles): Served with fresh tortillas and stewed beans.
Carne de Cerdo: braised pork shoulder with zucchini, chayote, string beans, huauzontle and tomatilla salsa.
Costillas de res: Hoja Santa stewed short ribs with carrots, collard greens, string beans, epazote and puya guajillo chili.
Tiny, moderately priced restaurant, offering home-style Mexican cooking overseen by a native of Puebla. Not your usual enchilada-fajitas-taco joint. Platillos include both casseroles and grilled entrees. Dishes are well seasoned to enhance your enjoyment of the different types of chilis used. Spicy does not equal hot. Mexican hospitality at its finest--warm, welcoming and genuine.
Ensalada de Nopalitos (cactus salad): String beans, cilantro, breakfast raddish, jicama, toasted almonds, serrano pepper lime vinaigrette.
Cazuelas (casseroles): Served with fresh tortillas and stewed beans.
Carne de Cerdo: braised pork shoulder with zucchini, chayote, string beans, huauzontle and tomatilla salsa.
Costillas de res: Hoja Santa stewed short ribs with carrots, collard greens, string beans, epazote and puya guajillo chili.
Tiny, moderately priced restaurant, offering home-style Mexican cooking overseen by a native of Puebla. Not your usual enchilada-fajitas-taco joint. Platillos include both casseroles and grilled entrees. Dishes are well seasoned to enhance your enjoyment of the different types of chilis used. Spicy does not equal hot. Mexican hospitality at its finest--warm, welcoming and genuine.
Watch Out Morimoto-san!
Ichimura at Brushstroke, 30 Hudson Street, NYC, $$$$12/27/12
Edo-Mae Sushi, Omakase menu only.
Master Eiji Ichimura personally serves you a fantastic, leisurely, dinner composed almost entirely of sashimi which has been gently aged. At the beginning of the meal he will ask if you have any allergies or preferences. Leave the choice up to Ichimura-san. and be prepared for a real experience. Each piece of fish is expertly carved from a filet and placed precisely on an appropriate serving plate. Freshly grated horseradish, pickled ginger and a small pile of smoked salt garnish each dish. Individual cruets of soy sauce are offered. We are instructed to either sprinkle a few grains of salt on each piece of fish, or dip it in the soy sauce. Our choice.
The procession of fish followed a specific logic, from mild to more assertive. I do not like Mackerel, raw or cooked. However, Ichimura-san's Mackerel was unlike any I have ever tasted. Anchovies? You have never had fresh White Anchovies like these. Of course the Toro was amazing, but I swoon over Uni--the smell of the ocean in your mouth. When the sushi was offered, I knew the meal was drawing to a close--perfect pillows of sushi rice, horseradish if Ichimura-san thought it appropriate. Not a piece of toasted nori in sight. But wait, Ichimura-san asked each of the diners if there was a piece of fish one would like to have again. My partner had the Toro, I could not resist more Uni. We ended the meal with a warm Red Bean soup, a perfect foil for all that rich fish.
There are only 9 seats at the sushi bar for a meal that lasts almost 2 hours. Ichimura-san makes you realize that each bite is worth the wait.
Edo-Mae Sushi, Omakase menu only.
Master Eiji Ichimura personally serves you a fantastic, leisurely, dinner composed almost entirely of sashimi which has been gently aged. At the beginning of the meal he will ask if you have any allergies or preferences. Leave the choice up to Ichimura-san. and be prepared for a real experience. Each piece of fish is expertly carved from a filet and placed precisely on an appropriate serving plate. Freshly grated horseradish, pickled ginger and a small pile of smoked salt garnish each dish. Individual cruets of soy sauce are offered. We are instructed to either sprinkle a few grains of salt on each piece of fish, or dip it in the soy sauce. Our choice.
The procession of fish followed a specific logic, from mild to more assertive. I do not like Mackerel, raw or cooked. However, Ichimura-san's Mackerel was unlike any I have ever tasted. Anchovies? You have never had fresh White Anchovies like these. Of course the Toro was amazing, but I swoon over Uni--the smell of the ocean in your mouth. When the sushi was offered, I knew the meal was drawing to a close--perfect pillows of sushi rice, horseradish if Ichimura-san thought it appropriate. Not a piece of toasted nori in sight. But wait, Ichimura-san asked each of the diners if there was a piece of fish one would like to have again. My partner had the Toro, I could not resist more Uni. We ended the meal with a warm Red Bean soup, a perfect foil for all that rich fish.
There are only 9 seats at the sushi bar for a meal that lasts almost 2 hours. Ichimura-san makes you realize that each bite is worth the wait.
A Second Chance for Keste
Keste e Vino, 271 Bleecker Street, NYC 1/12/13
Insalata Rustica: "Spring Mix" of greens, Prosciutto di Parma, marinated Artichokes, Gaeta Olives, Lemon Juice and Extra Virgin Olive Oil.
Pizza Speciale:
Noci e Porcini: Cream of Walnut, Porcini, Pecorino Romano, Basil and Olive Oil.
First visit to much heralded Keste was in September 2012 for lunch. Crust was undercooked and mediocre, and generally indifferent. The boss stopped in to speak with his manager, but obviously did not taste what was coming out of the oven. I could not understand the big fuss.
Second visit at dinner time on January 12, 2013 was altogether different. The Insalata Rustica was perfectly dressed, a well balanced blend of lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil. The Noci e Porcini pizza was delicious. It was generously sprinkled with porcini. The pecorino romano was in perfect proportion to the porcini. The crust was excellent, thin, crisp, but not a cracker. The crust was tasty but did not dominate or overwhelm the toppings. Experiment, go beyond the traditional Margherita. You will not be disappointed. I can hardly wait to return.
Insalata Rustica: "Spring Mix" of greens, Prosciutto di Parma, marinated Artichokes, Gaeta Olives, Lemon Juice and Extra Virgin Olive Oil.
Pizza Speciale:
Noci e Porcini: Cream of Walnut, Porcini, Pecorino Romano, Basil and Olive Oil.
First visit to much heralded Keste was in September 2012 for lunch. Crust was undercooked and mediocre, and generally indifferent. The boss stopped in to speak with his manager, but obviously did not taste what was coming out of the oven. I could not understand the big fuss.
Second visit at dinner time on January 12, 2013 was altogether different. The Insalata Rustica was perfectly dressed, a well balanced blend of lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil. The Noci e Porcini pizza was delicious. It was generously sprinkled with porcini. The pecorino romano was in perfect proportion to the porcini. The crust was excellent, thin, crisp, but not a cracker. The crust was tasty but did not dominate or overwhelm the toppings. Experiment, go beyond the traditional Margherita. You will not be disappointed. I can hardly wait to return.
Butter, 415 Lafayette Street, NYC
Butter at 415 Lafayette Street, NYC 1/11/13. Chef: Alexandra Guarnaschelli
Bread basket: slices of Country Bread and warm Bacon Scones served with two kinds of soft butter, one with fresh Herbs.
Amuse bouche: Smoked Salmon spread with grilled/fried (?) toast. [Toast a little greasy.]
Appetizer: Marinated Domestic Burrata with warm Garlic Toast, grilled Radiccio and aged Balsamic. (A serving large enough to be shared.) [Burrata was creamy and perfectly complemented by the radiccio and balsamic vinegar. Is aged balsamic always so sweet?]
Entrees:
Rack of Lamb with roasted Winter Vegetables, and a Lamb stuffed Raviolo atop Sage and Basil Pesto. [Cooked as ordered, two very meaty, thick, frenched lamp chops.]
Thick slices of Duck Breast with Cranberry Jam and braised Escarole. [Cranberry jam a little too sweet to my taste.]
Dessert:
Chef's Birthday Cake, a generous slice of Vanilla cake with a thin Chocolate Filling and Icing, drizzled with a Salted Caramel Glaze. [Dense textured cake, a result of the recipe or refrigeration? Salted caramel glaze made it special.]
Thankfully, only one appetizer special (butternut squash soup), and one entree special (pan seared filet of red snapper), instead of the laundry list of specials that some restaurants burden the diner and the waiter with. A tasting menu is available, but not all waiters remember to mention it. Reservations can be made through Savored.com, a variable pricing service, which enables you to eat at many places for a discount, if your meal times are flexible. 7 p.m. on a Friday night does not seem like an inconvenient time to eat for a 20% discount on both food and drink.
Bread basket: slices of Country Bread and warm Bacon Scones served with two kinds of soft butter, one with fresh Herbs.
Amuse bouche: Smoked Salmon spread with grilled/fried (?) toast. [Toast a little greasy.]
Appetizer: Marinated Domestic Burrata with warm Garlic Toast, grilled Radiccio and aged Balsamic. (A serving large enough to be shared.) [Burrata was creamy and perfectly complemented by the radiccio and balsamic vinegar. Is aged balsamic always so sweet?]
Entrees:
Rack of Lamb with roasted Winter Vegetables, and a Lamb stuffed Raviolo atop Sage and Basil Pesto. [Cooked as ordered, two very meaty, thick, frenched lamp chops.]
Thick slices of Duck Breast with Cranberry Jam and braised Escarole. [Cranberry jam a little too sweet to my taste.]
Dessert:
Chef's Birthday Cake, a generous slice of Vanilla cake with a thin Chocolate Filling and Icing, drizzled with a Salted Caramel Glaze. [Dense textured cake, a result of the recipe or refrigeration? Salted caramel glaze made it special.]
Thankfully, only one appetizer special (butternut squash soup), and one entree special (pan seared filet of red snapper), instead of the laundry list of specials that some restaurants burden the diner and the waiter with. A tasting menu is available, but not all waiters remember to mention it. Reservations can be made through Savored.com, a variable pricing service, which enables you to eat at many places for a discount, if your meal times are flexible. 7 p.m. on a Friday night does not seem like an inconvenient time to eat for a 20% discount on both food and drink.
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