What is behind one's impulse to document the minutiae of one's vacation?
Friday, 8/15/14: Legal Seafoods, Warwick, RI. Why has my mind embellished the memory of many satisfying meals here? Satisfying crab cakes, pleasant service, but the high point of previous meals, the onion strings, was under-whelming. Memory tricks?
Saturday, 8/16/14: Quicks Hole Taqueria, Woods Hole, MA. This taqueria erased the memory of last year's poorly made lobster roll with its Grilled Cod Baja Bowl, a burrito without the tortilla graced with a portion of properly grilled cod.
Saturday, 8/16/14: the Seafood Shanty, Edgartown, MA. An old standby that is not going to throw you any surprises, but is going to serve you what you expect. Wonderfully deep fried scallops, not the least bit over-cooked. How do these New Englanders know how to properly fry and cook fish? Even in the places without "chefs," the cooks invariably get it right.
Sunday, 8/17/14: 7A Foods, West Tisbury, MA. Trendy food shop that often delivers on its promise. A tasty Pork Italiano sandwich is quite satisfying and a needed break after 3 days of fish eaten twice a day. Its generous portion of roasted pork shoulder with broccoli rabe, provolone, ricotta salata and preserved lemon on a sub roll was much appreciated.
Monday, 8/18/14: Orange Peel Bakery, Aquinnah, MA. A pre-beach snack is in order. Bought a freshly baked Sunday Morning Snail pastry and a cheese and scallion scone for later. Made a mental note to come some Wednesday for Pizza Night.
Monday, 8/18/14: Chilmark General Store, Chilmark, MA. An old stalwart that does not disappoint with its pizza, almost as good as anything found in the City. Delicious french bread baked in the pizza oven is always taken home.
Monday, 8/18/14: Larsen's Fish Market, Menemsha, MA. Order your lobsters in the morning, and they will be ready for pick up at dinner time. Lobsters are boiled to perfection. Is that Betsy Larsen still doing the cooking? Be sure to have at least a half dozen Katama Bay Oysters before you head home with your lobster dinner.
Tuesday, 8/19/14: Linda Jean's, Oak Bluffs, MA. Have to have the fried scallop plate and their fantastically delicious onion rings. I never order anything else. Neither of these two dishes are ever going to be cooked in my kitchen. I just do not have the knack, training, or whatever to properly fry scallops or onion rings. Neither are ever greasy or overdone. One secret to the onion rings is that Linda Jean's uses onions with flavor.
Wednesday, 8/20/14: West Tisbury Farmers' Market. Breakfast at the market includes--Khen's Vietnamese summer rolls, Pie Chicks' fig & almond scones, and Bob's Bakery's cinnamon walnut rugelach. The summer rolls have been my market breakfast tradition for 20+ years. Khen and I have gone gray together. The surprise this year was the quality of the scones and rugelach, both tender and rich. I am so often disappointed by commercially made scones, that it is a real treat to eat a tender, tasty one that are as good as my own.
Thursday, 8/21/14: annual MV Agricultural Society, Ag Fair. Pigs, horses, goats, oxen, prize wining quilts, scones, tomatoes, sunflowers, etc. Everything that you would expect at an agricultural fair and more. Typical fair food and local specialties: the West Tisbury Fire Department's hamburger stand, Deon's Jamaican specialties (fried conch), Local Smoke Pulled Pork sandwiches (served with a divine fresh corn & tomato salad), and Flatbread Pizza to name a few.
Thursday, 8/21/14: The Beach Plum Restaurant, Menemsha, MA. Chris Fisher still the chef behind the stove. Started with the Beetlebung greens simply dressed with lemon and garnished with parmesan. The crostata of the day--fresh tomato slices with olive oil on grilled--showcased the delicious tomato. Whole grilled fluke for two was served with head and tail intact, and garnished with roasted potatoes and a crock of aioli. The fish seemed a minute overcooked and the aioli would have been enhanced by a little salt. Sometimes something can be too subtle. Finally a peach dessert that did not disappoint. A tender cookie-like crust with sliced peaches garnished with pureed peaches. Ahh, summer.
Thursday, August 21, 2014
Sunday, January 26, 2014
The Art of Dessert
ChikaLicious, 203 East 10th Street
Three Citrus sorbet with Creme Fraiche
Fromage Blanc Island "Cheese Cake"
Warm Chocolate Tart with Coffee Granita & Espresso gelato
Petits Fours: Coconut Marshmallows, Shortbread with sage?, Sugar cookie with Chocolate Mousse
Three Citrus sorbet with Creme Fraiche
Fromage Blanc Island "Cheese Cake"
Warm Chocolate Tart with Coffee Granita & Espresso gelato
Petits Fours: Coconut Marshmallows, Shortbread with sage?, Sugar cookie with Chocolate Mousse
Saturday, March 30, 2013
Football Madness!
Smithfield. 215 West 28th Street (7th & 8th Avenues).
This tavern has surpassed Nevada Smith's as the go-to-venue for football. Every league gets it due from the EPL to La Ligue to Serie A to the Bundesliga, the Eredivisie, etc. Not only are there three floors of screens, but the food is reasonably priced and good to boot. The wait staff is great, welcoming even at 7:30 a.m.! There are plenty of clean, well-stocked restrooms.
Breakfast & Beer menu is sure to please the fans who come for the early morning matches. The Brekky Sanger is a hardy way to start the morning while watching your team. It's a filling sandwich of organic fried eggs and Irish pork sausage on Pullman bread. For something lighter, closer to lunchtime, try the Chopped Salad, freshly made and properly dressed with bits of pine nuts, dates, crisp shredded lettuce and various other tidbits. All your favorite beers are available from the early morning dato last call.
This tavern has surpassed Nevada Smith's as the go-to-venue for football. Every league gets it due from the EPL to La Ligue to Serie A to the Bundesliga, the Eredivisie, etc. Not only are there three floors of screens, but the food is reasonably priced and good to boot. The wait staff is great, welcoming even at 7:30 a.m.! There are plenty of clean, well-stocked restrooms.
Breakfast & Beer menu is sure to please the fans who come for the early morning matches. The Brekky Sanger is a hardy way to start the morning while watching your team. It's a filling sandwich of organic fried eggs and Irish pork sausage on Pullman bread. For something lighter, closer to lunchtime, try the Chopped Salad, freshly made and properly dressed with bits of pine nuts, dates, crisp shredded lettuce and various other tidbits. All your favorite beers are available from the early morning dato last call.
Not Your Neighborhood Italian Market
Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria. 53 Great Jones Street (Bowery & Lafayette), NYC.
Roast Porchetta Panino. Not for those watching their cholesterol. This sandwich is a generous portion of Porchetta served on a crispy, crusty house-made roll. The portion was obviously sliced from a rolled pork roast which would make natives of Lazio proud. The slice included the crunchy skin and a rich layer of pork fat surrounding the moist pork and its Salsa Verde. Peppery Baby Arugula in the sandwich was a nice counterpoint to all that fat! A small side dish included Pickled Cauliflower, a Baby Carrot and a small Onion. These pickled vegetables were also a nice contrast to the rich pork.
A generous slice of Olive Oil Cake was a satisfying dessert with its hint of lemon. Black and Green teas are served by the pot; and a full menu of espresso drinks are available.
Sit at the 6-seat counter in the Alimentari. The wait-staff could not have been nicer, or more professional. They graciously answered any and all questions--about the food, the wine, the fancy beer and wine pulls, etc. Water glasses are routinely filled, even though the water carafe sits in front of you. Every effort is successfully made to make a diner feel welcomed.
Roast Porchetta Panino. Not for those watching their cholesterol. This sandwich is a generous portion of Porchetta served on a crispy, crusty house-made roll. The portion was obviously sliced from a rolled pork roast which would make natives of Lazio proud. The slice included the crunchy skin and a rich layer of pork fat surrounding the moist pork and its Salsa Verde. Peppery Baby Arugula in the sandwich was a nice counterpoint to all that fat! A small side dish included Pickled Cauliflower, a Baby Carrot and a small Onion. These pickled vegetables were also a nice contrast to the rich pork.
A generous slice of Olive Oil Cake was a satisfying dessert with its hint of lemon. Black and Green teas are served by the pot; and a full menu of espresso drinks are available.
Sit at the 6-seat counter in the Alimentari. The wait-staff could not have been nicer, or more professional. They graciously answered any and all questions--about the food, the wine, the fancy beer and wine pulls, etc. Water glasses are routinely filled, even though the water carafe sits in front of you. Every effort is successfully made to make a diner feel welcomed.
Sunday, March 10, 2013
No Joyous Noise from this Calliope
Calliope, 84 East 4th Street, New York, NY 10003.
Finally had a chance to try this much heralded, relatively new, spot in the East Village. Perhaps the kitchen is overwhelmed by its success, or perhaps there is too little new-style French bistro cooking in the City so any attempt is lauded. It was an up and down meal.
The complimentary anchovy toast with radishes is served as two big thick slices of nice crusty bread lightly toasted with a schmeer of anchovy spread, and a side of whole radishes. It would have been easier to eat, and tastier too, if the toast were smaller and the radishes were sliced and presented on top of each piece of toast. Eaten at the same time these individual elements were more complementary.
UP: The Eggs Mayo appetizer does not disappoint. Three perfectly cooked boiled eggs with ever so slightly runny centers are served whole, sprinkled with fresh chives, and drizzled with a delicious house-made mayo. The deep orange color of the yolks testified to the eggs' freshness. A very nice starter.
DOWN: However, a curious thing happened when we were presented with this starter. The waiter asked if we wanted the entrees along with the starter, or if we wanted them held since they were ready!? We requested the entrees be served when we were done with the eggs. We presumed the waiter did not really mean that our entrees were literally ready and being held. (The restaurant was only half full, and the expediting should not have been mistimed.)
DOWN: While the Rabbit with Pappardelle was tasty, the pasta was slightly overcooked. Fresh pasta is always tricky. Timing is important. It is too easy to overcook fresh pasta and have it turn it into paste.
UP: The Hot and Sour Braised Lamb Neck was well spiced and accompanied by mascarpone agnoletti. The lamb was served in a braising liquid that was a good balance of hot and sour.
UP: The Market Vegetable was the ubiquitous Brussels Sprout sauteed and served with Thai chilies. The server noticed my reticence, and suggested that the chef could go light on the chilies. The Brussels Sprouts were served crispy with a hint of heat. Good suggestion.
DOWN: For dessert the Green Apple and Pear Tart was shared. The portion came sliced in two with creme fraiche. Unfortunately, one of the halves was unevenly cooked and burnt looking. Having baked a number of fruit tarts myself, I would never serve a "guest" such an unsightly looking serving.
UP: The tea is properly served in a pot and the Americano had crema floating on top which attested to its really being pulled and not poured from a pre-made pot of coffee.
UP: The service is generally solicitous, and cannot be blamed for what happens in the kitchen. The restaurant still sends a portion of your check to two local theatre groups--the New York Theatre Workshop and La Mama--when you let them know you are a supporter.
As talented as the chefs are supposed to be, I would not make a special trip to eat here again. In addition, there are at least two or three too many two tops. The tables are so close together, you can accidentally put your elbow in a neighbor's plate. A party of 7 were seated at a table only big enough for 6.
Finally had a chance to try this much heralded, relatively new, spot in the East Village. Perhaps the kitchen is overwhelmed by its success, or perhaps there is too little new-style French bistro cooking in the City so any attempt is lauded. It was an up and down meal.
The complimentary anchovy toast with radishes is served as two big thick slices of nice crusty bread lightly toasted with a schmeer of anchovy spread, and a side of whole radishes. It would have been easier to eat, and tastier too, if the toast were smaller and the radishes were sliced and presented on top of each piece of toast. Eaten at the same time these individual elements were more complementary.
UP: The Eggs Mayo appetizer does not disappoint. Three perfectly cooked boiled eggs with ever so slightly runny centers are served whole, sprinkled with fresh chives, and drizzled with a delicious house-made mayo. The deep orange color of the yolks testified to the eggs' freshness. A very nice starter.
DOWN: However, a curious thing happened when we were presented with this starter. The waiter asked if we wanted the entrees along with the starter, or if we wanted them held since they were ready!? We requested the entrees be served when we were done with the eggs. We presumed the waiter did not really mean that our entrees were literally ready and being held. (The restaurant was only half full, and the expediting should not have been mistimed.)
DOWN: While the Rabbit with Pappardelle was tasty, the pasta was slightly overcooked. Fresh pasta is always tricky. Timing is important. It is too easy to overcook fresh pasta and have it turn it into paste.
UP: The Hot and Sour Braised Lamb Neck was well spiced and accompanied by mascarpone agnoletti. The lamb was served in a braising liquid that was a good balance of hot and sour.
UP: The Market Vegetable was the ubiquitous Brussels Sprout sauteed and served with Thai chilies. The server noticed my reticence, and suggested that the chef could go light on the chilies. The Brussels Sprouts were served crispy with a hint of heat. Good suggestion.
DOWN: For dessert the Green Apple and Pear Tart was shared. The portion came sliced in two with creme fraiche. Unfortunately, one of the halves was unevenly cooked and burnt looking. Having baked a number of fruit tarts myself, I would never serve a "guest" such an unsightly looking serving.
UP: The tea is properly served in a pot and the Americano had crema floating on top which attested to its really being pulled and not poured from a pre-made pot of coffee.
UP: The service is generally solicitous, and cannot be blamed for what happens in the kitchen. The restaurant still sends a portion of your check to two local theatre groups--the New York Theatre Workshop and La Mama--when you let them know you are a supporter.
As talented as the chefs are supposed to be, I would not make a special trip to eat here again. In addition, there are at least two or three too many two tops. The tables are so close together, you can accidentally put your elbow in a neighbor's plate. A party of 7 were seated at a table only big enough for 6.
Saturday, February 2, 2013
Antidote for the Winter Blues.
Luke's Lobster. 426 Amsterdam Avenue (82nd/81st Streets). 2/2/13.
Nothing reminds me of summer more than a fresh lobster roll. Thankfully, Luke's Lobster does not close for the winter.
The lobster rolls are generous, the Cape Cod Chips potato-ey, and the Maine Root Ginger Beer tangy. Today's lobster roll was full of claw meat, drizzled with butter and nicely peppered. The New England-style hot dog bun was lightly toasted. A half-sour pickle spear, served on the side, was crunchy, and provided a nice textural contrast. For heat seekers there are squeeze bottles of Red Rooster Sriracha sauce on every countertop.
The "fish shack"decor seems to bring out a relaxed, 'it's summer" attitude, that leads to amiable table sharing at this limited seating spot.
Nothing reminds me of summer more than a fresh lobster roll. Thankfully, Luke's Lobster does not close for the winter.
The lobster rolls are generous, the Cape Cod Chips potato-ey, and the Maine Root Ginger Beer tangy. Today's lobster roll was full of claw meat, drizzled with butter and nicely peppered. The New England-style hot dog bun was lightly toasted. A half-sour pickle spear, served on the side, was crunchy, and provided a nice textural contrast. For heat seekers there are squeeze bottles of Red Rooster Sriracha sauce on every countertop.
The "fish shack"decor seems to bring out a relaxed, 'it's summer" attitude, that leads to amiable table sharing at this limited seating spot.
UES Hospitality
Corrado Bread and Pastry. 1361 Lexington Avenue at 90th Street, NYC. 1/31/13.
While wandering around the UES one evening looking for something sweet to eat, before attending a superb production of "Fiddler on the Roof," but not wanting to go to Starbucks, I stumbled into Corrado Bread and Pastry.
In a city often characterized as cold and rude, and often rightly so, the counter staff at this Upper East Side location are the welcomed exception. On a cold winter night, each customer that crossed the threshold was warmly greeted. Not an auto-pilot greeting, but a "look you in the eye" welcome. When someone takes the time to serve you in a cordial manner, it is hard to be rude and in a rush.
The pecan bar was yummy, full of pecans on a tender base and not overly sweet. With a cup of tea this was a perfect dessert. Be warned there is only a slim counter at the window at which to sit. Most customers took their orders with them--sandwiches, macarons, pastries, cookies, etc.
It was a pleasure to patronize a place that really wants your business, and by its example brings out the best in its customers.
While wandering around the UES one evening looking for something sweet to eat, before attending a superb production of "Fiddler on the Roof," but not wanting to go to Starbucks, I stumbled into Corrado Bread and Pastry.
In a city often characterized as cold and rude, and often rightly so, the counter staff at this Upper East Side location are the welcomed exception. On a cold winter night, each customer that crossed the threshold was warmly greeted. Not an auto-pilot greeting, but a "look you in the eye" welcome. When someone takes the time to serve you in a cordial manner, it is hard to be rude and in a rush.
The pecan bar was yummy, full of pecans on a tender base and not overly sweet. With a cup of tea this was a perfect dessert. Be warned there is only a slim counter at the window at which to sit. Most customers took their orders with them--sandwiches, macarons, pastries, cookies, etc.
It was a pleasure to patronize a place that really wants your business, and by its example brings out the best in its customers.
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