When did the United States stop dining from "nose to tail?" It amuses me that one of the latest crazes is "nose to tail" dining. Haven't we loved Bologna, Salami and Hot Dogs for ages? What about Head Cheese and Souse? Have Scrapple and Tongue disappeared? Aren't sausages of all kinds part of our food vocabularies? Didn't they serve fried liver and onions in the school cafeteria? Remember pickled pigs feet, chopped chicken liver, stuffed derma? Sauteed calves brains were still on the menu at the Cave Henri IV in the '60s.
At first thought, I guessed things changed after the great migration to the cities. But wait, I am a city person, born and bred. Yet, these foods were part of my childhood and adolescence. What's up? Where did they go, that they now have to be rediscovered? Please advise.
Sunday, May 22, 2011
Jackson Diner - Worth the Trip?
Jackson Diner, 37-47 74th Street, Jackson Heights, NY.
Is it worth it to take 3 subway trains to Queens just for dinner? On a lazy Saturday in May, the journey began around 5 p.m. and ended a little after 6 p.m. Thanks to the MTA and its bewildering, but necessary (?) service interruptions and changes.
Upon seating, customers are given a huge pitcher of ice water and a dish of Papad (crisp lentil wafers) with two dipping sauces. Remembering how filling Indian food can be, we nibbled only sparingly on the Papad. The first thing ordered was the requisite Kingfisher beer. The meal started with an appetizer special, Uttapaums (?), a lentil pancake with sauteed veggies. These were served with two dipping sauces--a yogurt based coconut, pale green sauce and a thin brown sauce with little flavor.
The main course included Goat Curry and Sag Paneer. Since no Indian meal is complete without bread, after much deliberation the Onion Kulcha was selected. The Sag Paneer was served with Dal and Cucumber Raita, a clear indication that the dish they accompanied was going to be spicy hot, and it was. The Goat Curry seemed a little tame, until a bit of heat hit the back of your throat after it was swallowed.
The food at the Jackson Diner seems to be spiced for Indians. It is assertive, but not hot just to burn for its own sake. Dishes have always had varying degrees of heat. Unlike the Sag Paneer served in much of Manhattan, the Jackson Diner's version had plenty of paneer. While you can find goat on the menu at several Indian restaurants in Manhattan, often it is not available. The goat meat in the curry was tasty thanks to being cooked on the bone. There could have been more meat in the curry.
Only able to eat half of each of the entrees, dessert was out of the question. There were enough leftovers for a satisfying lunch the next day.
To answer the question posited at the beginning of this piece, yes it is. While I am not Indian, have not eaten in an Indian home since grade school, and have not traveled to Indian, the food at the Jackson Diner seems authentic enough to continue to draw neighborhood patrons from India and other parts of South East Asia.
Is it worth it to take 3 subway trains to Queens just for dinner? On a lazy Saturday in May, the journey began around 5 p.m. and ended a little after 6 p.m. Thanks to the MTA and its bewildering, but necessary (?) service interruptions and changes.
Upon seating, customers are given a huge pitcher of ice water and a dish of Papad (crisp lentil wafers) with two dipping sauces. Remembering how filling Indian food can be, we nibbled only sparingly on the Papad. The first thing ordered was the requisite Kingfisher beer. The meal started with an appetizer special, Uttapaums (?), a lentil pancake with sauteed veggies. These were served with two dipping sauces--a yogurt based coconut, pale green sauce and a thin brown sauce with little flavor.
The main course included Goat Curry and Sag Paneer. Since no Indian meal is complete without bread, after much deliberation the Onion Kulcha was selected. The Sag Paneer was served with Dal and Cucumber Raita, a clear indication that the dish they accompanied was going to be spicy hot, and it was. The Goat Curry seemed a little tame, until a bit of heat hit the back of your throat after it was swallowed.
The food at the Jackson Diner seems to be spiced for Indians. It is assertive, but not hot just to burn for its own sake. Dishes have always had varying degrees of heat. Unlike the Sag Paneer served in much of Manhattan, the Jackson Diner's version had plenty of paneer. While you can find goat on the menu at several Indian restaurants in Manhattan, often it is not available. The goat meat in the curry was tasty thanks to being cooked on the bone. There could have been more meat in the curry.
Only able to eat half of each of the entrees, dessert was out of the question. There were enough leftovers for a satisfying lunch the next day.
To answer the question posited at the beginning of this piece, yes it is. While I am not Indian, have not eaten in an Indian home since grade school, and have not traveled to Indian, the food at the Jackson Diner seems authentic enough to continue to draw neighborhood patrons from India and other parts of South East Asia.
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Finally a visit to the Momofuku empire
After walking around the "Festival of Ideas for the New City StreetFest," I finally paid a visit to two parts of David Chang's Momofuku empire--Momofuku SSam Bar and the LES branch of Momofuku Milk Bar. Sitting at the long bar at Momofuku SSam Bar is the way to go for first time visitors. You can see all the delicious food others are enjoying, while you make up your mind. Since it was early, we decided to order from the "Small Dishes" part of the menu. We started off with the Steamed Buns, which everyone seemed to be ordering. These are definitely not the steamed baos found in every Chinatown from Manhattan to Flushing to Clement Street. These pillowy, flat disks of dough envelope wonderfully tasty pieces of pork belly, garnished with hoisin sauce, scallions, and almost translucent slices of cucumber, that still retained a bit of crunch. Next came the Bar Bun, another pillowy, flat disk of dough. This time the pork belly is crispy and accompanied by slices of avocado, basil and smoked mayonnaise. Feeling guilty about eating all that pork belly, we ordered some veggies. First we had the Asperagus served with trout roe, lilly shoots and sunflower seeds. A new combination for us. Then we had the Market Greens (Bok Choy), which are stir fried and served in XO sauce and garnished with fried leeks. There was a hint of heat after each bite of these dark greens. While the red wine ordered was enjoyed, beer will be the beverage of choice on the next visit.
Now, if I can only persuade 5 or 7 other pork lovers to venture to the LES, we can order the Bo Ssam--a whole pork butt roasted, a dozen oysters, kimchi, rice and lettuce for a real pig-out.
After all that porky richness, just what you need is a cookie, whose first ingredient is butter! But I am a sucker for any commercially baked product that lists butter as its first ingredient. The Compost Cookie is tasty, but it was hard to discern the influence of some of its many ingredients in addition to butter and chocolate chips--potato chips, pretzels, coffee, oats and butterscotch. I was hoping for that ideal balance of butter, chocolate, sugar and salt, maybe next time.
Now, if I can only persuade 5 or 7 other pork lovers to venture to the LES, we can order the Bo Ssam--a whole pork butt roasted, a dozen oysters, kimchi, rice and lettuce for a real pig-out.
After all that porky richness, just what you need is a cookie, whose first ingredient is butter! But I am a sucker for any commercially baked product that lists butter as its first ingredient. The Compost Cookie is tasty, but it was hard to discern the influence of some of its many ingredients in addition to butter and chocolate chips--potato chips, pretzels, coffee, oats and butterscotch. I was hoping for that ideal balance of butter, chocolate, sugar and salt, maybe next time.
Sunday, May 1, 2011
Birthday Bangers at DBGB's
Actually, I had the Beaujolaise sausage (pork, mushroom, onion, bacon & red wine) and the Tunisienne sausage (a lamb & mint merguez). The table also had the Anglaise (2 English pork bangers) and the Louisianne (andouille sausage). Four different sausages not being enough for three people, so a Toscane (sliced Italian sausage) and an Espagnole (sliced chorizo) were ordered.
But I am getting ahead of myself.
We started with the Flatbread special of the day, a crispy flatbread topped with Sauteed Ramps, Crushed Fava Beans, Sweet Onion Puree, Chevre and Lamb Pancetta. The kitchen made sure each slice had a dollop of Chevre and a baton of Lamb Pancetta. The crispy, slightly salty, flatbread was perfect with the German beers that were ordered--a Steen and an Enbecker (non-alcoholic).
The Beaujolaise was accompanied by a pile of Lentils du Puy, while the Tunisienne sat on a bed of Lemon-braised Spinach & Chickpeas. The Bangers were accompanied by Yorkshire Pudding (an American Popover), while the Andouille sat on top of soupy rice, garnished with fried Okra, and served in a cast iron skillet. The Italian sausage was nestled among slow cooked Fennel, Tomato, Chilis & Garlic, while the Chorizo was served with a Piperade and Basil oil. DBGB's famous Frites were a most enjoyable side dish.
It was a perfect day for ice cream. There are usually two or three diffferent sundaes on the menu. Each sundae seems to have at least four components, in addition to the ice cream. The Coffee Sundae was Coffee ice cream, soft Coffee Cake chunks, crunchy Chocolate Chip Cookie disks, roasted Hazel Nuts and Whipped Cream drizzled with some type of thin sauce (perhaps hazelnut). The Caramel Sundae, wisely ordered without Whipped Cream, had as its base a delicious not-overly-sweet Chocolate Ice Cream, with chunks of Brownies and Candied Almonds, just to name a few of the additions. Not into sundaes, but want some of the housemade ice cream? Try the Chocolate Mint Ice Cream Sandwich--slabs of Chocolate Mint ice cream "sandwiched" between thinly sliced and toasted Brioche, and served in a puddle of Chocolate sauce.
After such a hearty meal, a long walk home is in order.
But I am getting ahead of myself.
We started with the Flatbread special of the day, a crispy flatbread topped with Sauteed Ramps, Crushed Fava Beans, Sweet Onion Puree, Chevre and Lamb Pancetta. The kitchen made sure each slice had a dollop of Chevre and a baton of Lamb Pancetta. The crispy, slightly salty, flatbread was perfect with the German beers that were ordered--a Steen and an Enbecker (non-alcoholic).
The Beaujolaise was accompanied by a pile of Lentils du Puy, while the Tunisienne sat on a bed of Lemon-braised Spinach & Chickpeas. The Bangers were accompanied by Yorkshire Pudding (an American Popover), while the Andouille sat on top of soupy rice, garnished with fried Okra, and served in a cast iron skillet. The Italian sausage was nestled among slow cooked Fennel, Tomato, Chilis & Garlic, while the Chorizo was served with a Piperade and Basil oil. DBGB's famous Frites were a most enjoyable side dish.
It was a perfect day for ice cream. There are usually two or three diffferent sundaes on the menu. Each sundae seems to have at least four components, in addition to the ice cream. The Coffee Sundae was Coffee ice cream, soft Coffee Cake chunks, crunchy Chocolate Chip Cookie disks, roasted Hazel Nuts and Whipped Cream drizzled with some type of thin sauce (perhaps hazelnut). The Caramel Sundae, wisely ordered without Whipped Cream, had as its base a delicious not-overly-sweet Chocolate Ice Cream, with chunks of Brownies and Candied Almonds, just to name a few of the additions. Not into sundaes, but want some of the housemade ice cream? Try the Chocolate Mint Ice Cream Sandwich--slabs of Chocolate Mint ice cream "sandwiched" between thinly sliced and toasted Brioche, and served in a puddle of Chocolate sauce.
After such a hearty meal, a long walk home is in order.
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